Deep Sleeping Finish by Lavender

The world of textile industry is going through revolutionary changes aimed at the unique needs of the modern customers. Textile products are being most essential for human beings and now its development is toward value added function. Value addition in clothing has changed the global textile scenario; the main objective of our paper is to create good sleep through the fabric finished with lavender oil. In this paper fabric made up of 100% pure cotton will be finished with lavender oil. Human clinical studies have reported that presence of lavender oil extract in beneficial in many ways and is mostly used for medical applications like insomnia , alopecia, anxiety, stress, postoperative pain and as an antibacterial and antiviral agent.

It smells and the presence of this oil in fabric will make the wearer feel happy and during sleep make him to concentrate towards this pleasant smell .thus the one wearing this garment will get a good sleep throughout the entire night. During the finishing treatment the lavender oil is encapsulated within the yarn structure and the fragrance will be released in a slow manner. And the pleasant smell of lavender can be obtained for many number of washes and usage of the fabric, as it is herbal in nature, there will not be any skin irritation the sleepless person often using sleeping tablets can have a good sleep using such kind of garments

INTRODUCTION

  The name Lavender was given to this plant; the name thought probably to have come from either the Latin verb 'lavare' (to wash) or 'livendulo' (livid or bluish). Lavender is one of the most useful and versatile herbs available both as a fresh or dried herb, and as an essential oil. Throughout history in its native regions of Europe, it has been widely used for treating a variety of problems. Probably the most commonly used property of Lavender is in helping to pleasantly and gently induce sleep. This combined with its calming and relaxing properties, gave it popularity in British hospitals for many years. It was reasonably common in the Victorian era for those who had the means to own lavender-flower stuffed pillows. Simply a drop or two of lavender essential oil, or a few more drops in a relaxing pre-bedtime bath, can be quite useful for people who suffer from mild insomnia, especially if it is because of stress. It’s soothing, calming qualities make it perfect to also help with panic attacks, anxiety, and so on.

CULTIVATION OF LAVENDER PLANT

            Lavender really is a hardy little plant. It can be grown in zones from 4 to 10 quite easily. Naturally some of the types are better suited for the colder temperatures then others. Some aren't hardy to frost at all, now that does not mean that they can’t be grown in cooler climes it just means that they need to be grown in either pots or in protected areas.

            

            Fig: 1 Lavender plant                                                   Fig: 2 Lavender flower

CHARACTERISTICS OF LAVENDER OIL

            Lavender essential oil has soothing, calming, and restorative properties. The essential oil is antiseptic, cooling and mild. Considered the universal oil, lavender is readily used neat, or undiluted, and combines well with almost all other oils for a wide variety of benefits. Many aroma therapists say lavender is the first essential oil to get. Color and Body Grade: A clear essential oil, Lavender is generally considered middle note oil, but can be used as either a base or top note depending on what other essential oils you combine it with.

FEATURES:

Ø  Anti-septic, anti-viral, and anti-bacterial

Ø  Promotes a feeling of well-being; anti-depressant

Ø  Soothes and heals the skin

Ø  Promotes skin cell renewal

Basically, it is said that the lavender herb is easy to grow and one does not need the expertise of being a horticulturist to grow this perennial herb in one’s own kitchen garden

BENEFITS OF LAVENDER WHEN USED IN SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

            It has antiseptic, antibacterial, anti-viral, anti-toxic, anti-inflammatory, cytophylactic, decongestant, rubefacient, restorative, vulnerary and tonic therapeutic effects on the skin.

            Because of the high percentage of linalool that it contains, it is excellent for promoting healing. The vulnerary properties help to prevent tissue degeneration and also arrest bleeding in wounds. It balances the skin, making it ideal for any skin type. Its cytophylactic properties (encouraging the growth of new skin cells) stimulates the growth of new skin cells, which is a boon for any anti-aging skin care product, as well as people struggling with problem and acne skin, as well as for minor wounds and sores.

            Its balancing action on the skin makes it  perfect to be used in cases of abscesses, acne, carbuncles, eczema, minor infections, oily skin, boils, burns, sunburn, wounds and psoriasis, while it rubefacient properties increase blood circulation and relieve congested skin.

PREPARATION AND CHEMICAL CONTENT OF LAVENDER

PREPARATION

            Essential oil was extracted from lavender flowers, in which the flowers are heated with water by direct fire, wood being used as fuel. The stills are carried to the fields where the flowers grow, because it is believed that the flowers deteriorate upon transportation. In stationary distilleries, the oil is obtained by distillation with steam. The yield is 1 pound of oil from 200 pounds of fresh flowers. Schimmel & Co. obtained from dried French flowers a yield of 1.2%, from dried German flowers, 2.8%. All lavender oils were indiscriminately termed oil of spike in former centuries

            Essential oil was extracted from lavender flowers in a semi continuous system by supercritical CO₂. Experiments were carried out in the ranges of 8−14 MPa pressures, 308−323 K Temperatures, and 1.092−2.184 × 10-3 kg/min carbon dioxide flow rates. The extraction process was modeled by a quasi-steady-state model as a function of extraction time, flow rate, pressure, and temperature. The model contains only one adjustable parameter, the intra particle diffusion coefficient (effective diffusivity) De. The model using the best fit of De correlates the data satisfactorily.

            The official oil is described as "a colorless or yellowish liquid, having the fragrant odor of lavender flowers, and a pungent and bitter in taste. Specific gravity is 0.885 to 0.897 at 15°C. It is soluble in all proportions in alcohol (distinction from oil of turpentine), and in three times its volume of a mixture of 3 volumes of alcohol and 1 volume of water (distinction from, and absence of, oil of turpentine), it is also soluble in glacial acetic acid. With an equal volume of carbon disulphide it forms a turbid mixture. The alcoholic solution of the oil is neutral or slightly acid to litmus paper

LAVENDER OIL CHEMICAL CONTENT:

            The main chemical components of lavender oil are a-pinene, limonene, 1, 8-cineole, cis-ocimene, trans-ocimene, 3-octanone, camphor, linalool, linalyl acetate, caryophyllene, terpinen-4-ol and lavendulyl acetate.

HOW TO MAKE LAVENDER OIL:

            Lavender has long been regarded for its splendour and uniquely breathtaking fragrance. It is more than just a flower that gives an exquisite view to its surroundings. It also has the power to heal, not only for muscle spasm and physical injuries, but also for emotional stress. Lavender essential oil is excellent for the skin and adding its extract to soaps and bathwater gives off a fresh fragrance. It also helps repair skin problems while making the skin feel invigorated.

            Put the oil into the jar then add the plant material and stir. Cover tightly and leave for 48 hours in a sunny windowsill, shaking every 12 hours. Lay a piece of muslin over the bowl and strained the oils. Gather up the muslin and squeeze the material to extract as much as you can. Put the oil back to the jar and add fresh material. Continue in a same way until you get the aroma you want. If the weather is cold and dull you can place the jar in a saucepan of cold water. Slowly heat it until the water become just hand-hot. Keep it the temperature for 10 minutes. Remove the jar. Do this once a day. After final straining, you can put the oil into a dark glass bottle. The shelf life for your essential oil is 6 - 12 months if kept in a dry, dark, cool place.

APPLICATIONS OF  LAVENDER OIL BY MICROENCAPSULATION

APPLICATION PROCESS OF LAVENDER OIL TO GARMENT:

The pure cotton woven fabric was desized to remove the sizing materials by enzyme and scoured to remove the unwanted substances by using 3gpl of sodium hydroxide and 0.1gpl of sequestering agent and 1.75gpl of Hydrogen peroxide in the m:l ratio of 1:4 and the fabric is boiled for 1hr. After bleaching hot wash is done during this hot wash, to remove the peroxides by peroxide killer and monosodium phosphate was added and it is neutralized by acetic acid. Then the fabric was dyed with reactive dyes and after treatment is required to remove the surface colours, and it is ready for dyeing.

Recipe:

            M: L: R                       =          1:10

            Lavender Oil               =          10% (OWM)

            Temperature                =          80˚C

            Time                            =          30 mines

            p^H                                =          6 by acetic acid.

PROCESS SEQUENCE

Take a required amount of water

↓

Add acetic acid to maintain the p^H level at 6

↓

Raise the temperature to 80˚C

↓

Add 10 % of lavender oil

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Immerse the garment into the bath and continue the process for 30 mines

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After that take out the garment from the bath and dry it without washing

SPECIAL PROMOTIONS:

            The fresh, sweet aroma of lavender has relaxing and uplifting qualities that leave users with a sense of calm and balance. Discover your inner calm with these great lavender products!

HOW IT WORKS:

            People respond to the sense of smell on an emotional level more strongly than any other sense. For example, a single aroma can trigger a whole string of forgotten memories. The area of the brain associated with smell is the same area as that associated with memory. The olfactory nerves are located within the nasal cavity and respond to particular aromas.  They send the information to the part of the brain where memory and emotions lie. This area connects with another part of the brain (hypothalamus and pituitary gland) which governs our hormonal systems. These aromas trigger a variety of chemical actions within the body, including the release of specific chemicals.  Enkephalin reduces pain and creates a feeling of well-being. Endorphins also reduce pain and induce sexual feelings. Serotonin helps relax and calm. Because the olfactory nerves are a direct extension of the brain's limbic system, reaction to smell is relayed immediately.

SCIENTIFIC GLANCE

            The olfactory epithelium lies within the nasal cavity.  The nerve endings are sensitive to molecules floating about in the air that get stuck on the mucous surface. The contact of such molecules with the cilia of the olfactory receptors is transduced into neural messages

MODERN RESEARCH

Current research for external uses of lavender flower oil has shown some evidence for the relief of anxiety and depressive mood, ability to promote sleep, and as an antibacterial. Lavender oil’s antibacterial properties have been found effective in the healing of the perineum in post-partum women who had episiotomies while giving birth. In addition, lavender oil aromatherapy reduced the level of perceived anxiety and physical symptoms of anxiety in nursing students. In hospice patients, it has elicited a decrease in perceived pain and depression and an increased sense of well-being. In other studies, lavender oil was found effective in reducing anger-frustration moods and negative responses about the future. Lavender essential oil has also been studied for its ability to reduce agitation and mitigate the effects of dementia in elderly patients.

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CONCLUSION:

Lavender can be thus encapsulated for a longer period of time, which otherwise possess lower shelf life. It’s not creating any harmful sensation to humans or the environment. Under suitable finishing and curing conditions, the wash durability of lavender finished fabrics can be more than 15 wash cycles, so now people are more considering about the quality rather than any other things like cost ,etc of the products, so these lavender  finished materials will going to take very good place in future days.

AN OVERVIEW OF PROCESSING AND APPLICATION OF LYOCELL

Abstract

            Lyocell is a new generic name given to a cellulosic fiber which is produced under an environmentally friendly process by dissolving cellulose in the tertiary amine oxide N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO). Lyocell fiber shows some key advantageous characteristics over other cellulosic fibers; for instance, a high dry and wet tenacity and high wet modulus. For the majority of the last century, commercial routes to regenerated cellulose fibers have scoped with the difficulties of making a good cellulose solution by using an easy to dissolve derivative (e.g. xanthane in the case of viscose rayon) or complex (e.g. cuprammonium rayon). For the purpose advanced cellulosic fibers are defined as those made from a process involving direct dissolution of cellulose. The first examples of such fibers have now been generically designed as lyocell fibers to distinguish them from rayon’s, and the first commercial lyocell fiber is Courtaulds’ Tencel.

            This paper will consider all developments of fiber from manufacturing to chemical processing; also consider the key applications of the lyocell fiber, concentrating on its application in textile, apparel and nonwoven fabrics.

Introduction

            Lyocell is the first in a new generation of cellulosic fibers made by a solvent spinning process. A major driving force to its development was the demand for a process that was environmentally responsible and utilized renewable resources as their raw materials. The first samples were produced in 1984and commercial production started in 1988. A wide range of attractive textile fabrics can be made from lyocell that are comfortable to wear and have good physical performance. This physical performance combined with its absorbency also makes lyocell ideal for nonwoven fabrics and papers. The cellulose fibers produced by direct dissolution have the generic name of Lyocell. Cellulose is one of the most abundant natural resources on earth, and there has been extensive research on the films, plastics, and fibers from this material. The history of cellulose fibers dates back to the 1860s, when the first rayon fibers were commercialized by Courtaulds. But the so-called rayon process includes toxic chemical treatments to block hydroxyl groups of cellulose to prepare a spinnable solution, mostly it causing an ecological problem. Many attempts have been made to invent new solvents to directly dissolve cellulose, and some successful results have been reported. Among these, N-methylmorpholine- N-oxide (NMMO) hydrate turned out to be the best solvent, leading to the commercial success of cellulose fibers under the trade name of Tencel by Courtaulds in 1994.

Figure: 1, Raw Materials for lyocell Fiber (Oak logs)

            Other lyocell process includes Lenzing Lyocell. These processes are advantageous because they are environmentally benign, using nontoxic NMMO hydrates instead of toxic carbon disulfide, which can be almost totally recycled. The lyocell fiber has a highly crystalline structure in which crystalline domains are continuously dispersed along the fiber axis. This offers good wet strength as well as excellent dry strength, which makes lyocell water-washable. Further, it shrinks less when wetted by water and dried than other cellulose fibers such as cotton and viscose rayon. Recently, a new lyocell process, which has some characteristic, features similar to the Tencel process. The new process dissolves finely powdered cellulose in molten NMMO hydrate within 5 minutes by means of a pasting stage, which causes much less decomposition of cellulose. Further, this process can use NMMO hydrates with a hydration number (n) greater than 1 because it adopts a plasticating extruder. The value of n plays a significant role in the phase behavior of cellulose solutions. It also affects the physical properties of the fibers spun from the solution; Fig.2. show the  Lyocell processes consume lower amounts of water, but a similar magnitude of energy.

Figure: 2 Ternary diagram showing the effect of temperature on the dissolution Cellulose in NMMO

The Properties of Lyocell

            Comparisons of lyocell with viscose and other cellulosic in both laboratory and test markets proved that the fibers were sufficiently different to deserve separate marketing strategies. Table.1. shows various physical properties of lyocell with other fibers

Lyocell is:

• Stronger than any other cellulosic fibers, especially when wet
• Easy to process into yarns and fabrics alone or in blends
• Easy to blend (unique fiber presentation)
• Easy to spin to fine count yarns
• Very stable in washing and drying
• Thermally stable
• Easy to dye to deep vibrant colors
• Capable of taking the latest finishing techniques to give unique drape
• Comfortable to wear

Table 1:  The comparison properties of lyocell with different cellulosic fibers

Property	Lyocell	Viscose	Cotton	Polyester (PET)
Dry Tenacity (cN/Tex)	38-42	22-26	20-24	55-60
Wet Tenacity (cN/Tex)	34-38	10-15	26-30	54-58
Dry Elongation (%)	14-16	20-25	7-9	25-30
Wet Elongation (%)	16-18	25-30	12-14	25-30

The Courtaulds’ Lyocell Process

            The Courtaulds’ semi-commercial production system is illustrated in Fig.3. Dissolving grade wood pulp is mixed into a paste with NMMO and passes through a high-temperature dissolving unit to yield a clear viscous solution. This is filtered and spun into dilute NMMO, whereupon the cellulose fibers precipitate. These are washed and dried, and finally baled as staple or tow products as required by the market. The spin-bath and wash liquors are passed to solvent recovery systems which concentrate the NMMO to the level required for re-use in dissolution.

                                                                                    Figure: 3 Courtaulds’ Lyocell Process

Lyocell Conversion

            Lyocell is similar in strength to polyester and stronger than cotton and all other man-made staple fiber cellulosic’s. It also has very high dry and wet modulus for cellulosic fiber in both the dry and wet states, the properties of lyocell fiber is shown in bellow the table. These properties allow customers great scope for making strong yarns in blend with virtually all the other commercially available staple fibers. They also lead to excellent efficiencies in converting these yarns to woven add knitted fabrics. All man-made cellulosic’s lost strength and modulus when wetted, but lyocell reduces by much less than others. This is important in determining how properties of the fabric are developed during dyeing and finishing.

Yarn Manufacturing

            Once lyocell fiber has been produced, either as cut staple fiber or continuous tow, it will be converted to yarns and fabrics by a range of conventional textile processes. The most common way of using lyocell fiber is as cut staple, with 1.4 and 1.7 dtex fibers cut to 38 mm and converted into a spun yarn using machinery developed over many years for handling cotton fibers that are similar in dtex and length to lyocell. Lenzing lyocell is made by a wet-cut route and has different processing characteristics. The fiber can be processed on conventional machinery, usually requiring a few setting changes in order to optimize processing performance.

            Thus lyocell will open very easily with little nep formation. In sliver and roving, the fibers pack together, giving high cohesion and therefore requiring high drafting forces. Lyocell yields very regular yarns with high tensile strength and few imperfections. Lyocell blends well with other fibers, including cotton, viscose, linen, wool, silk, nylon and polyester. Lyocell adds strength to the yarn as well as enhancing the performance and aesthetic properties of the final fabrics. Minimal carding power is required, as the fiber is very open. In drawing, sliver detectors may need to be re-set to adjust for the low bulk of the lyocell. In roving, the twist should be low to avoid too high a cohesion. Optimization is very important at this stage of the process.

             Yarn steaming should be avoided wherever possible. Steaming cellulosic fibers, amongst other things affects fiber dye affinity, twist liveliness and splice strength. The dye affinity for cellulosic fibers reduces with increasing steam temperature and the influence on lyocell fiber is greater than for other cellulosic, such as cotton and viscose. Therefore steaming should be avoided unless this can be extremely well controlled. Twist liveliness can be reduced in other ways, such as by storing yarn on ring tube for 16–24 hours in a high humidity environment prior to winding.

Fabric manufacture

            Weaving of lyocell fabrics can be successfully carried out on most conventional looms and in a wide range of constructions. The construction needs to be carefully engineered with the dyeing/finishing route to develop the best performance and aesthetics. Very tight constructions can give problems in dyeing and tend to give fabrics with poorer easy-care performance.

Dyeing and finishing of lyocell

            The dyeing and finishing of lyocell fabrics is the key to their success. There are three characteristics of the fibers that can be manipulated to give fabrics with attractive and differentiated aesthetics- the ease of fibrillation, the high nodules and the wet swelling characteristics. Fibrillation can yield the characteristic ‘peach skin’ effect surface touch of fabrics made from this fiber, but un wanted and uncontrolled fibrillation can also impair the fabric quality, much of the dyeing and finishing development has been focus on this aspect.

A lyocell is a cellulosic fiber; it can be dyed with colors normally used on cotton. Compared with unmercerized cotton, lyocell, except with a few reactive and vat and a number of direct dyes (pale shades), dyes to a heavier depth by exhaust techniques and therefore many shades can be attained at lower cost, particularly with reactive dyes. The dyeing mechanism for most classes of reactive dyes is similar.  First the reactive dye is exhausted on to the cellulose fiber using salt. In the second stage of dyeing, alkali is added to fix the dye; dyeing behavior of lyocell is shown in bar chart 1

            Many of modern reactive dyestuffs contain two or three reactive groups. A key discovery, made early in the development of lyocell, was that these multifunctional dyestuffs can crosslink the fiber and there by prevent or inhibit the fibrillation of the fiber. Since manipulation of this fibrillation is critical for the development of the fabric aesthetics.

Bar chart: 1 Dyeing Behavior of Lyocell with Other Cellulosic Fibers

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Easy-care lyocell

            As with any fabric, chemical finishing is an important aspect of the process and this is especially true when considering the finishing of open-width processed lyocell fabrics. In such processing, resin treating is the method of controlling fibrillation. If too little resin is fixed then fabrics will fibrillate on subsequent washing, too much and physical performance deteriorates. It is also important to include appropriate softeners and auxiliary products into the chemical finish so that performance and handle are appropriate to the customer’s requirements. The application of ~2–3% omf (on mass of fiber) fixed resin appears to be optimal for easy-care properties, dependant on the fabric construction and weight. Application levels of 2% omf are needed to stop fibrillation on domestic washing. In addition to the resin, the choice of softener can have a large effect on the easy-care performance of fabrics, and it is important to consider the whole formulation and build it up to give the required performance. Silicone micro-emulsions penetrate yarns more than the macro-emulsions. Polyethylene dispersions aid sewing and build the handle of the fabric, whilst some soft acrylic-based chemicals can increase the abrasion resistance. It is also worth remembering that caustic soda or liquid ammonia treatment in preparation will help to increase the easy-care rating of lyocell fabrics.

Fibrillation:

            This can be defined as the longitudinal splitting of a single fiber filament into micro fibers. The splitting occurs as a result of wet abrasion, particularly against metal. The fibrils formed can be so fine that they become virtually transparent and give a frosty appearance to the finished fabric. The samples fig 4 shows an example of a non-fibrillated (a) and a fibrillated (b) lyocell fabric. The fibrillated fabric gives frosty appearances. In case of extreme fibrillation, the loose fibers on the surface of the fabric fibrillate and then tangle together to form very light colored pills. The appearance of the fabric becomes totally unacceptable.

      

(a)                                                                                (b)

Fig 4 shows an example of a non-fibrillated (a) and a fibrillated (b) lyocell fabric.

Applications 

            Lyocell feels like silk, and drapes luxuriously. Compared to cotton, Lyocell wrinkles less, is softer, more absorbent, and much more resistant to ripping. In material physical properties, Lyocell is more like cotton than rayon. Like other cellulosic fibers, it is breathable, absorbent, and very comfortable to wear. In fact, Lyocell is more absorbent than cotton or silk, but slightly less absorbent than wool, linen, or rayon.

            Lyocell has good resiliency: it does not wrinkle as badly as rayon, cotton, or linen, and some wrinkles will fall out if the garment is hung in a warm moist area, such as a bathroom after a hot shower. A light pressing will renew the appearance, if needed. Also, slight shrinkage is typical in Lyocell garments. Lyocell is a stable a fiber better than cotton or linen. Lyocell is more expensive to produce than cotton or rayon, but is included in many everyday items. Staple fiber is used in apparel items such as denim, chino, underwear, other casual wear clothing & towels. Filament fibers are used in items that have a silkier appearance such as women’s clothing and men’s dress shirts. Lyocell can be blended with a variety of other fibers such as silk, cotton, rayon, polyester, linen, nylon, and wool.

Lyocell – a versatile, high performance fiber for nonwovens

            The early stages of the commercialization of lyocell were focused towards the fashion textile apparel sector. However, this has changed during the first years of the twenty-first century so that lyocell is now targeted equally into the industrial sector, with particular emphasis on the key nonwovens markets of wipes, filters and feminine hygiene products. The key difference between traditional textile production and nonwovens production is the omission of the yarn stage from the production process. In nonwovens manufacture, the fibers are formed into a web and a fiber bonding or entangling process is used to impart integrity and control the function, hand and appearance of the resulting nonwovens’ substrate. Staple fiber grades are produced to suit carded dry laid, air laid and wet laid processes.

Lyocell is also used in

·  Conveyer Belt

·  Specialty Paper

·  Medical Dressing

·  Surgical swabs, drapes, gowns

·  Floppy disc liners, filtration cloth

·  Lining materials

Conclusion

            Cellulose is one of the most abundant natural resources on earth, and there has been extensive research on the films, plastics, and fibers from this material. This century modified cellulose were investigated with eco friendly route, lyocell is one among these. Lyocell is not only environmental friendly fiber; it offers more desirable properties like   highly crystalline structure in which crystalline domains are continuously dispersed along the fiber axis, good wet strength as well as excellent dry strength, which makes lyocell water-washable. Further, it dye uptake more, shrinks less when wetted by water and dried than other cellulose fibers such as cotton and viscose rayon.

Reference:

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2.      Chae DW, Chae HG, Kim BC, Oh YS, Jo SM, Lee WS (2002) Physical properties of lyocell fibers spun from isotropic cellulose dope in NMMO monohydrate. Text Res J 72:335–340. doi:10.1177/004051750207200410

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8.      J. M. Taylor, M. J. Bradbury and S. Moorhouse, “Dyeing Tencel and Tencel A100 with Poly-Functional Reactive Dyes”, AATCC Review, No. 10 page 21-24 (2001).

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