Sunday 22 March 2015

Costing of Polo Shirt

Description of product

Here I am going to calculate price of a polo shirt of having following configuration:
100% cotton pique polo-shirt containing two buttons in the front placket having side band with flat-knit collar and cuff and Small embroidery on left chest.

For calculating price of polo-shirt at first we have to calculate the fabric consumption from the size spec sheet given by buyer.
If you want to know how to calculate the consumption of polo-shirt then you can check my other article “Fabric consumption of polo-shirt”.
Let consider,
Fabric consumption per dozen: 3.80 kg
So, Yarn consumption will be: 3.80 + (3.8×8%)
= 4.104 kg/dz

So, Fabric costing

So, costing for yarn per dozen= US$3.90 × 4.104 kg/dz(price of yarn = US$3.90/kg)
= US$ 16 /dz
Knitting charge (pique)= US$ 0.15 × 4.104/dz(Knitting charge = US$ 0.15/kg)
= US$ 0.62/dz
Dyeing Charge= US$ 1.3 × 4.104/dz(Dyeing Charge = US$ 1.3/kg)
= US$ 5.34/dz
So, Finished fabric cost per dz= (16+0.62+5.34) US$/dz
= 21.96 US$/dz

For Collar & Cuff Costing

Yarn cost= 0.70 × 3.90 US$/dz
= 2.73 US$/dz
Knitting Charge= 0.07 × 12
=0.84 US$/dz
Dyeing Charge= 1.3 × 0.70
= 0.91 US$/dz
So, Finished collar & Cuff cost= (2.73+0.84+0.91)US$
= 4.48 US$/dz

Now, production cost per dz

For Fabric= 21.96 US$
For Collar & Cuff= 4.48 US$
Cost Management (CM)= 6 US$
Accessories cost= 3 US$
So, Total Production cost  = 34.44 US$/dz

Finally FOB price

Total production cost= 34.44 US$/dz
Commercial Cost (3% of total production cost)= 0.88 US$/dz (without CM)
Profit ( 20% of CM)= 1.2 US$/dz
Total FOB Price Per Dz= 36.52 US$/dz
So, FOB price per piece     = 3.04 US$/pc
Final quoted price for Buyer = 3.1 US$ / pc (FOB)

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Gas Singeing Machine

Description of Gas singeing
As I mentioned earlier to write about gas singeing today I am going to discuss about Gas singeing method and also going to share a comparison study of Plate singeing, Roller singeing and gas singeing

This machine consists of one or more burners giving continuous flat or vertical flames, produced by mixture of compressed air and gas. When fabric passes over the flame and singeing is done as require.

gas singeing
Gas Singeing Process Sketch
There are various types of machines depending on burns design. The speed of machines 72-90 m/min depending on cloth varieties. The machines are attached with water tank to save the fabric from any damage. Now a day’s various improved have been done in the machine design. Improper singeing may be lead to as much as 75% tensile strength loss in the warp directions.
Why gas singeing method is popular than other methods?
  1. Better singeing and projecting fibers of interstices is burned by the processes.
  2. Uniform singeing can be maintained.
  3. Smoothness and evenness of the fabric is increased.
  4. Groove is produced in other singeing machines but gas singeing machines is saving from that problem.
  5. Gas flame can be changed according to fabric with.
  6. Production is height than other machines.
  7. Both side of the fabric can be singeing.
Due to the above facilities this gas machine more popular than other machines.
Difference among Plate singeing, Roller singeing and Gas singeing
Plate singeing
Roller singeingGas singeing
Inter stitches fibres not burned.Same as plate.Inter stitches fibres are burn out.
Due to mental plate friction surface become smooth and luster.Same as plate singeing.Extra luster is not produced.
Fabric moves plate stationary.Both move opposite direction. Fabric moves only.
Even temperature maintaining is problem.Better than plate singeing.Burning is used.
Metal plate is used.Metal roller is used.Gas flame is used.
Speed:150-250 yards/min.Less than plate singeing.Speed250-400 yards/min.
One side is signed.One side is signed.Both sides are signed.

Sunday 8 March 2015

MEN’S UNDERWEAR STYLES


There are more men’s underwear styles today than ever before. The types of underwear for men, in fact, are so varied that you could wear a different cut of underwear each day of the week for months. The Underwear Expert’s men’s underwear styles guide breaks down all the types of underwear for men in an easy to read and informative format.
In our expert style guide, you’ll find men’s underwear styles and information including:
  • Pro’s and con’s of each of the different men’s underwear styles.
  • Where the design of the different types of underwear for men originated.
  • Which of the men’s underwear styles will work best for you, and why.
Perfect for:  Moderate Sports, Everyday, Dressing Up, Going Out
Most guys own a pair of briefs, and for good reason.  They’re your standard, run-of-the mill underwear and come in a variety of different rises, designs and variations.  They cover your entire backside and package, but leave the upper thigh and side of the leg exposed making them comfortable to wear under just about anything. Briefs are perfect for guys who need support or prefer to keep everything in one place but don’t care for the excess fabric found in boxer briefs, boxers or trunks; a well-made brief can even provide a little lift.  They now come in low, medium and high-rise and more than ever, more flavorful cuts that accentuate the profile and back-side.
Low-rise Brief:  Low-rise briefs sit below the natural waistline on the hips giving you just enough fabric to cover you up, and not much more; additionally, many are engineered to enhance the package.
Wear With:  Low-rise jeans and shorts, workout pants and shorts.
Mid-rise Brief:  The waistband of a mid-rise briefs sits at the natural waistline.
Wear With: Regular cut jeans, dress pants and board shorts.
High-rise Brief:  The waistband of a high-rise brief sits right below the belly button, providing a more traditional fit.  A high-rise brief can streamline the waist, eliminating love handles and smoothing the stomach.
Wear With: High-waisted pants.
Perfect for:  Moderate Sports, Everyday
Wear With:  Workout clothes and gym shorts, jeans, pants.
A true boxer brief will cover about half of your thigh, but many boxer briefs now cover about 1/3.  They offer protection from chaffing during workouts and sports, and often are made with a moderate rise on the waist.  They provide just about the same amount of support as a standard brief, and provide complete coverage.
Perfect for:  Everyday, Dressing Up, Going Out, Moderate Sports
Wear With:  Just about anything.
Trunks are quickly becoming a favorite cut for underwear among men in the know.  Why? A trunk cut is a hybrid of a brief and boxer brief without the heap of fabric (in other words, they’re boxer briefs with short legs and a square cut appearance). If you like briefs but want to try something a little different, you should try trunks.
Perfect for:  Everyday, Casual Sports, Going Out
Boxers are loose-fitting underwear with no support and more breathability than any other undergarment. Many boxer shorts have an open fly allowing the user an exit route with maximum ease. Boxer short styles are varied, spanning from the underwear you may associate with your Grandfather, to trendier, slimmer ones.
Relaxed Fit:  Boxers are traditionally slightly baggy allowing for maximum leg movement.
Wear With:  Baggier Pants, Pajamas, and shorts.
Slim Fit:  Boxer Shorts are now available in a slim fit, which provide for a loose fit, but are able to be worn under slim-cut pants.
Wear With:  Slim-cut pants, tailored dress pants, shorts.
Perfect for:  Rigorous Sports
Wear With:  Uniforms, Tight Pants, Bike Shorts.
Jockstraps offer complete frontal support and protection, but lack fabric to cover the backside.  They often lift the package up and away from the body resulting in a cooler and dryer wear than basic briefs.  The pouch is harnessed with two leg bands that fall to the sides of the glutes on the upper thigh and connect between the legs to the underside of the pouch.  Cups can be inserted into some jockstraps for protection during rigorous activities like sparring and martial arts.
Bikinis
Perfect for:  Everyday, Dressing Up, Going Out, Relaxing
Wear With:  Tight Pants, Shorts, Gym Shorts, Pajamas.
Men’s bikini bottoms, often designed without waistbands and flys, are used mostly for sunbathing and recreation unless, of course, you’re a bodybuilder, in which case they’d be used as a uniform.  With more material than a g-string and jockstrap, bikini bottoms are acceptable in public and are in many cultures preferred to traditional swim trunks.  Gaining popularity among women in the very early part of the 20th century, bikinis are a possible predecessor of the standard brief, originally sold in 1935.  Bikini’s haven’t made much progress in design for most of their history, but Sasha Baron Cohen  recently made a different take on the bikini famous: the mankini.  A sling bikini that stretches to the shoulders and back leaves the hips and butt bare and very well could be the future of swimwear.  Maybe.
Long Underwear
Perfect for:  Cold Weather, Relaxing
Wear With:  Warm weather pants.
Also known as long-johns and thermal underwear, long underwear has an interesting history.  Originally designed for women in the  19th century seeking less restricting garments, long underwear was actually part of a one-piece garment called the unionsuit.  It quickly caught on with men and was used by working men well into the twentieth century.  Popular for its thermal qualities and rear flap, otherwise known as the “access hatch,”  “drop seat,” or “firemen’s flap,” unionsuits quickly evolved into two piece garments that were worn during colder weather.  Now, a staple in men’s and women’s cold weather wardrobes, long underwear comes in form fitting and lightweight fabrics with moisture wicking properties for optimum comfort on the season’s coldest days.  And most importantly, they’re just like, really cute.
G-Strings
Perfect for:  Everyday, Relaxing, Going Out,
Wear With:  Just about anything.
Not for the faint of heart, or for the avid athlete, g-strings are pretty much as bare minimum as underwear comes.  A thin piece of fabric connects a pouch to the waistband in the back leaving the glutes fully exposed.  Perfect for an underwear fetish, or for men that like their jeans extra tight without having to worry about underwear lines or going commando, the g-string is both an erotic and sensible alternative to more… wholesome underwear.
The men’s underwear industry has exploded with innovations and technology. The astonishing amount of different types of underwear and the variations on each of the different men’s underwear styles are too many to count. For example, briefs aren’t just briefs anymore—not at all; briefs come in low-rise, medium-rise, high-rise, multiple cuts that can expose or hide various parts of your body and a dizzying array of different pouches. Men’s underwear styles now also feature a never-ending list of underwear “add-ons” including:
  • Waist minimizing waistbands.
  • Butt enhancing cuts.
  • Package boosting pouches.
  • Fast-drying fabrics.
  • Anatomically correct designs.
  • and many more.

Wednesday 4 March 2015

Listmania: LBC Red List and others


Having a list makes it easy for us to tick off those bad chemicals that nobody wants to live with.  And in the building industry there have been a proliferation of lists which identify chemicals of concern:  the Perkins & Will Precautionary List, the LEED Pilot 11 and the Living Building Challenge Red List, among others.  And make no mistake, we think it’s critical that we begin to develop these lists, because we all need a baseline.   As long as we need to eat and breathe, toxics should be an important consideration.  We just have a problem with  how these lists are used.
So let me explain.
First, lists for the most part are developed on the basis of science that usually occurred five or 10 years ago, so they can  (though not always) be lagging indicators of safety to humans and the environment.  (But that’s a minor point, just wanted us to remember to maintain those lists.)
When using lists, it’s important to remember the concept of reactive chemistry:  many of the chemicals, though possibly deemed to be benign themselves, will react with other chemicals to create a third substance which is toxic.   This reaction can occur during the production of inputs, during the manufacture of the final product, or at the end of life (burning at the landfill, decomposing or biodegrading).   So isn’t it important to know the manufacturing supply chain and the composition of all the products – even those which do not contain any chemicals of concern on the list you’re using – to make sure there are no, say … dioxins created during the burning of the product at the landfill, for example?
It’s also important to remember that  chemicals are synergistic  – toxins can make each other more toxic.  A small dose of mercury that kills 1 in 100 rats and a dose of aluminum that will kill 1 in 100 rats, when combined, have a striking effect: all the rats die.  So if the product you’re evaluating is to be used in a way that introduces a chemical which might react with those in your product, shouldn’t that be taken into consideration?
So, O.K., the two problems above would be extremely difficult to define  – I mean, wouldn’t you need a degree in chemistry, not to mention the time and money, to determine if these could occur .  The average consumer wouldn’t have a clue.  Just wanted you to know that these problems do exist and contribute to our precautionary admonition regarding lists.
Each list has a slightly different interpretation – and lists different chemicals.  The Healthy Building Network published this Venn diagram of several of the most prevalent lists used in building materials:
The real reason we don’t like the way lists are used is that people see the list, are convinced by a manufacturer that their product doesn’t contain any of the chemicals listed, so without any further ado the product is used.
What does that mean in the textile industry, for example?
By attempting to address all product types, most lists do not mention many of the toxic chemicals which ARE used in textile processing. In the Living Building Challenge Red List, no mention is made of polyester, the most popular fiber for interiors, which itself is made from two toxic ingredients (ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid – both carcinogens, neither of which are on the list).  That means  a fabric made of polyester – even recycled polyester – that has been processed using some pretty nasty chemicals – could be specified.   Chemicals which are commonly used in textile processing  and which are NOT included on the Living Building Challenge Red List, for example,  but which have been found to be harmful , include:
Chlorine   (sodium hypochlorite NaOCL); registered in the Toxic Substances Control Act   as hypochlorous acid ; sodium chlorite
Sodium cyanide;   potassium cyanide
sodium sulfate   (Na2SO4)
Sodium sulfide
 APEOs ( Alkylphenolethoxylates)
Chromium III   and VI (hexavalent chromium)
Zinc
Copper
pentachlorophenol   (PCP)
permethrin
Dichloromethane   (DCM, methylene chloride)
Tetrachloroethylene   (also known as perchloroethylene, perc and PCE)
Methyl ethyl   ketone
Toluene:   toluene diisocyanate and other aromatic amines
Methanol (wood   alcohol)
Chloroform;   methyl chloroform
Arsenic
Phosphates   (concentrated phosphoric acid)
Dioxin –   by-product of chlorine bleaching; also formed during synthesis of certain   textile chemicals
Benzenes and   benzidines; nitrobenzene; C3 alkyl benzenes; C4 alkyl benzenes
Sulfuric Acid
Optical   brighteners: includes several hundred substances, including triazinyl   flavonates; distyrylbiphenyl sulfonate
Acrylonitrile
ethylenediaminetetra   acetic acid [EDTA]
diethylenetriaminepenta   acetic acid [DTPA]
Perfluorooctane   sulfonates (PFOS)
In the case of arsenic (used in textile printing and in pesticides) and pentachlorophenol (used as a biocide in textile processing) – the Living Building Challenge Red List expressly forbids use in wood treatments only, so using it in a textile would qualify as O.K.
Perhaps we should manufacture with a “green list” in mind: substituting chemicals and materials that are inherently safer, ideally with a long history of use (so as to not introduce completely new hazards)?
But using any list of chemicals of concern ignores what we consider to be the most important aspect needing amelioration in textile processing – that of water treatment.  Because the chemicals used by the textile industry include many that are persistent and/or bioaccumulative which can interfere with hormone systems in people and animals and may be carcinogenic and reprotoxic, and because the industry often ignores water treatment even when it is required (chasing the lowest cost) the cost of dumping untreated effluent into our water is incalculable.
The textile industry uses a LOT of water – according to the World Bank, 20% of industrial freshwater pollution is from the textile industry; that’s another way of saying that it’s the #1 industrial polluter of water on the planet.  In India alone textile effluent averages around 425,000,000 gallons per day, largely untreated[1].   The chemically infused effluent – saturated with dyes, de-foamers, detergents, bleaches, optical brighteners, equalizers and many other chemicals –  is often released into the local river, where it enters the groundwater, drinking water, the habitat of flora and fauna, and our food chain.  The production of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) were banned in USA more than 30 years ago (maybe that’s why they’re not listed on any of these lists?), but are still showing up in the environment as unintended byproducts of  the chlorination of wastes in sewage disposal plants that have a large input of biphenyls (used as a dye carrier) from textile effluent.[2]
Please click HERE to see the PDF by Greenpeace on their new campaign on textile effluent entitled  “Dirty Laundry”, which points the finger at compliant corporations which basically support what they call the “broken system”.  It asks corporations to become champions for a post toxic world, by putting in place policies to eliminate the use and release of all hazardous chemicals across a textile company’s entire supply chain based on a precautionary approach to chemicals management, to include the whole product lifecycle and releases from all pathways.
Another problem in the textile industry which is often overlooked is that of end of life disposal.  Textile waste in the UK, as reported by The Ecologist, has risen from 7% of all waste sent to landfills to 30% in 2010.[3]  The US EPA estimates that textile waste account for 5% of all landfill waste in the U.S.[4]  And that waste slowly seeps chemicals into our groundwater, producing environmental burdens for future generations.  Textile sludge is often composted, but if untreated,  that compost is toxic for plants.[5]
What about burning:    In the United States, over 40 million pounds of still bottom sludge from the production of ethylene glycol (one of the components of PET fibers) is generated each year. When incinerated, the sludge produces 800,000 lbs of fly ash containing antimony, arsenic and other metals.[6]
These considerations are often neglected in looking at environmental pollution by textile mills[7] – but is never a consideration on a list of chemicals of concern.
So yes, let’s recognize that there are chemicals which need to be identified as being bad, but let’s also look at each product and make some kind of attempt to address any other areas of concern which the manufacture of that product might raise.  Using a list doesn’t get us off the hook.