Sewing Faults

Sewing faults are the most common ones found during a product inspection for garments. Sewing defect are the major problems in quality section. The product quality is more affected by sewing defects.

The following sewing faults are found in quality section.

1. Missing Stitch
2. Skip stitch
3. Lycra missing
4. Bottom up down
5. Oil spot
6. Pen spot
7. Over stitch
8. Hole

The above faults are given below with images:

1. Missing stitch

Missing Stitch

2. Skip stitch

Skip stitch

3. Lycra missing

Lycra missing

4. Bottom up down

Bottom up down

5. Oil spot

Oil spot

6. Pen spot

Pen spot

7. Over stitch

Over stitch

8. Hole

Hole

.

Garments Costing

Cost typically can be defined as’ the economic value placed upon the resources consumed to make a product. Costing of garment is a very important task for a garments export business. Costing of the garments considering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers, distributions and advertisement expenses etc.

Cost Division:

Cost is divided into-

1. Pre-cost- merchandiser
2. Final Costing- Merchandiser+ import section

Garment for example :- $3.00 = cost
Garment costing: $3.00+ profit = costing

Pre Cost-

• It is an estimate made before the garment is adopted in to the line
• Fabric,trim and labour costs for each garment is calculated
• The merchandiser usually keep a record of all materials costs on a work sheet
• Then the costing department can roughly estimate the cost and price structure.

Final Costing-

1. It is an exact figures for fabric,accessories and labour cost
2. Using actual figures for fabric,accessories and labour cost
3. Costing department uses-
   • Merchandiser work sheet
   • A proto type garment
   • Production pattern
   • A detailed cost analysis made for each garment the final cost is plotted on a ‘’cost sheet’’.

Price Fixation Process in Garments Export Business

FOB (Free on board):-

• Exporter does not bear the cost of freight of ship or air
• It is buyer who him self bear the freight

C&F (Cost $ Freight):-

• Free on board+ freight= c& f
• In this case ship or air freight is carried by the exporter while while quoting price.
• This price a bit higher than FOB

CIF (Cost,insurance &Freight)

• C & f + insurance =CIF
• In this case in addition to the bearing of freight, the cost of insurance is also borne by the exporter.

CM (Cost of making)

• Manufacturing or exporter will get only making charge of that garment
• Fabric, trimming and other materials is supplied by the buyer

CMT(Cost of manufacturing and trimming)

• Manufacture or exporter will get the making charge and at the same time will get the trimming cost
• Fabric is supplied by the buyer.

Costing for Knitted T-shirt

Men’s Basic T-shirt-short sleeves- 100% Cotton 140 GSM Single jersey – 1 x 1 ribs at neck – solid dyed – light, medium and dark colors in equal ratio.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL Ratio: 1: 2: 2: 2: 1
Measurements in cm: (Finished garment)
Size: L
Chest – 60 cm
Length – 78 cm
Sleeve length – 24 cm
Neck rib width – 3 cm Hem – 3 cm
Patterns are generally made with the seam allowance and cutting allowance. Generally, 12 cm is added with the total of body length and sleeve length.

That is,
Fabric consumption/pc = [(Body length + Sleeve length + allowance) * (Chest + allowance) * 2 * GSM] / 10000 
=[(70 + 24 + 12) * (60 + 3) * 2 * 140] / 10000
= 187 grams

Body & Sleeves: 187 grams
Neck rib: 10 grams (approximately)
Gross weight: 197 grams or 0.197/kg
Fabric consumption/ dozen = 0.197 X 12 = 2.364 kg
Here, fabric price/kg= $6
Fabric price / dozen = 6 X 2.364 = $ 14.184
Fabric price/ dozen = $ 14.184
Per dozen CM cost = $ 5.5
Per dozen accessories cost = $5.0
Per dozen overhead cost = $1.8 (bank handling, carriage, forwarding)
Commission = $3
—————————————————————–
Total FOB price = $29.484 (including commission)
Here, total FOB price = $29.484
Per dozen sea freight = $ 1.34
———————————————————————
Total C&F price (Hamburg)/dozen = $ 30.824
Again, total C&F price / dozen = $ 30.824
Per dozen insurance cost = $ 1.3
Total CIF price / dozen = $ 32.124
Total CIF price/piece = (32.124÷12) = $ 2.677

Working Principle of Overflow Jet Dyeing Machine

Overflow Jet Dyeing Machine

Overflow Jet  dyeing machine is used for pre-treatment and dyeing of rope fabrics, with both liquor and materials moving; the architecture and the design of the system and the liquor ratios are similar to the jet machine ones. The main difference is the fabric transport system, driven partly by a motorized reel, and partly by the sequential flow of the liquor. The jet system nozzle, based on a Venturi tube, is replaced by a vessel containing the liquor; the liquor enters the straight pipe section and then flows through the transport channel, together with the fabric rope.

Overflow Jet Dyeing Machine

This Machines are designed for use in delicate knitted and woven fabrics that are made up of natural as well as synthetic fibers. They are also extensively used in the production of carpets. The main difference between jet and overflows jet machines is that in jet machines the fabric gets transported by a bath that flows at high speed through the nozzle, while in Overflow Dyeing Machine it is the gravitational force of the liquor overflow that is responsible for fabric transportation.

Parts of Overflow Jet Dyeing Machines

Working Principle of Jet Overflow Dyeing Machine

A typical Overflow Jet Dyeing Machine works like this. A winch that is not motor driven usually is located in the top side of the machine where the fabric is hanged. A longer length of textile is made to hang from the exit side of the winch as compared to the inlet side. By applying the force of gravitation the longer length of textile is pulled downward more strongly than the shorter one. Consequently the fabric is soaked in the bath without any sort of tension. The following diagram well illustrates the working process.

Schematic diagram of Overflow Jet Dyeing Machines

Technical Parameters of Overflow Jet Dyeing Machine:Advantages of Overflow Jet Dyeing Machine

• No evaporation losses– As the dyeing vessel is closed, there is no evaporation losses stemming from the dye bath. Further, depending on the situation the temperature may be raised to more than 100 Degree C.

• No build up of steam condensate in the dye bath– The latest technology implies that the dyebath gets heated by a heat transducer which is steam driven. This technology apart from being very efficient ensures that there is no build up of steam condensate in the dyebath.

• Low liquor ratios– Dyeing is conducted at relatively low liquor ratios, e.g. 10:1 and may be lesser resulting in substantial savings in water and energy.

• Excellent dye liquor contact– Excellent dye liquor contact with the fabric rope results in better and more improved level dyeings.

• Computer control– The machines are operated by computer and hence, operator error is eliminated.

Stripping Procedure

Stripping:

Stripping is carried out to remove uneven of shade or to reduce darkness of shade. 

Full stripping for 100% cotton:

1. Detergent: 1 g/l
2. Caustic soda: 3 g/l
3. Kapatex R 98: 5g/l

Process steps:

• Take water at required level
• Load the fabric
• Raise the temp at 60 Degree C & circulate the fabric..
• Add sequestering agent, anticreasing agent..
• Raise the temp. at 70 Degree C add Castic soda..
• Raise the temp. at 80 Degree C & add Hydrose..
• Circulate the fabric & raise the temp at 100 Degree C & continue 60 min
• Decrease the temp at 80 Degree C & rinse for 10 min & drain
• Add acetic acid and raise the temp. . at 60 Degree C and run for 10 min..
• Drain

Washing for colored fabrics:

• The colored fabrics to be washed is loaded in the machine
• Required amount of water is taken
• PCLF (detergents) added & washing continued at 80 Degree C for 20 mins
• Cold washing

Re-dyeing:

When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing machine for shade matching is known as re-dyeing..
Generally, re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper than the target shade.  It may occur when the fabrics absorb one or two colors more or less.

One re-dyeing process is described below..

• Drain the let off solution
• Hot wash at 70-80 Degree C
• Acid wash at 60-70 Degree C(60 for light shade & 70 Degree C for deep shade)..
• Soda ash washes at 90-100 Degree C for 60 mins to reduce the depth of shade..
• Acid wash at 60 Degree C..
• Addition to required dyestuffs..
• Salt addition..
• Soda ash addition..