TENCEL® - Number one for children’s skin

TENCEL® - Number one for children’s skin

TENCEL® fiber has proven its effectiveness: it is the very best fiber for babies and children. its outstanding property combination makes this cellulose fiber the very best fiber for children. it is the only fiber to exhibit the highest dimensional stability possible; making it robust and hard-wearing for children playing everywhere. its strength also guarantees easy-care properties. Textiles can be washed at high temperatures and remain supple even after repeated washing – itching and scratching won’t interfere in our children’s world of discovery.

Properties such as naturalness, skin friendliness and a high moisture absorption in children’s textiles guarantee endless hours of play.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin in children – A health issue

An increasing number of children suffer from sensitive skin. As a result of environmental pollution, the number of allergies which can affect the skin is increasing. for this reason it is becoming more and more important to pay attention to the largest of all of the human organs – i.e. the skin.

Smooth structure lends a helping hand

TENCEL®

Cotton

TENCEL® is the perfect fiber for children’s sensitive skin. Tests have shown that when children with sensitive skin wear textiles of TENCEL® there is a significant improvement to their well-being. The exceptionally smooth fiber surface of TENCEL® is found to be extremely pleasant on the skin. in addition, the chemicals in fiber play a role when it comes to sensitive skin. TENCEL® is naturally pure and not burdened with chemicals.

When comparing the fiber surfaces of cotton to TENCEL® the difference becomes blatantly obvious. TENCEL® has a very smooth and supple surface whereas the surface of cotton is rough.

Moisture Management

Kids need movement

Anyone moving about a lot is bound to perspire. Children have an inborn need to stay on the move and are much more active than adults. kids need an average of two to three hours of exercise every day for healthy development. kids’ natural urge to romp, run, climb and jump needs to be accounted for in the form of comfortable clothing. Particularly when it comes to physical exertion, it is important to be dressed in clothing that quickly absorbs moisture.

TENCEL® - The moisture management professional

TENCEL®

Cotton

TENCEL® absorbs up to 50 % more moisture than cotton which makes it the ideal ingredient for children’s clothing. in TENCEL®, sub-microscopic channels between the individual fiber fibrils guarantee exceptionally good moisture absorption and rapid moisture release.

TENCEL® absorbs moisture in a controlled and regular manner and has a 50 % higher moisture absorption level than cotton.

Perfect Partnership

Tradition in combination with function

Cotton is the textile fiber most commonly used in children’s clothing. This traditional fiber is used in all skin-tight textiles. it is natural, hard-wearing and moisture-absorbent. Now TENCEL® has brought it’s own properties to blends with cotton. When blended, TENCEL® and cotton can guarantee greater comfort for children. Children’s textiles become more absorbent, skin friendlier and more robust. This blend is quite simply the best for our kids.

Hard-wearing and robust in everyday life

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The specialty fiber TENCEL® Lf is exceptionally suited to knitted fabrics. in terms of processing, it is very much like cotton. The blend is hard-wearing and does not lose its original quality even after repeated washings. This is particularly important in children’s clothing. Now nothing can put a damper on the abundant zest for life that children have.

When it comes to quality, TENCEL® offers a host of advantages. Blended with cotton, the fiber can be applied universally. In addition these blends are extremely hard-wearing since TENCEL® has a high fiber tenacity.

ECO-Denim

Urban denim chic

Little ones just simply love jeans. Jeans are practical and durable. With TENCEL® this year-round article of clothing becomes softer and more eco-friendly. Adding TENCEL® to conventional cotton jeans can significantly improve the environmental soundness. If 25 % of TENCEL® fibers are used in a denim fabric, the amount of useful land needed to grow cotton is reduced by 25 %. The same applies to water consumption: a 25 % reduction. This is the best solution for the future of our children.

Integrated comfort

No time for uncomfortable clothing. TENCEL® offers integrated comfort in jeans. The smooth fiber surface and perfect moisture management of TENCEL® transform children’s jeans into feel-good articles of clothing. There is no time to be uncomfortable in a child’s world.

A host of eco-friendly arguments make jeans wear of TENCEL® the perfect eco alternative particularly in combination with cotton. Comfort and eco-friendliness can go hand in hand.

Natural Bed

Kids need lots of sleep

Plentiful sleep of the healthy kind is an important pre-requisite for children’s physical and mental development. A child who has had enough sleep will develop well. school aged children need nine and a half hours of sleep and babies need up to twice that amount. sleep is, therefore, an essential issue for both children and parents. Therefore, attention should be paid to bedding in order to make the time children spend in bed as healthy and pleasant as possible.

Sweet dreams with TENCEL®

The unique combination of properties in TENCEL® allows you to enjoy relaxing dreams. An entire bed can be equipped with TENCEL® fiber. All of the positive properties of this fiber can be transferred to the children’s bedding. There is a special TENCEL® type for each element in the bed: TENCEL® powder in the mattress core, filling fibers for mattress covers and bed covers and MicroTENCEL® for the very finest bed linens. Now nothing can stop the appearance of a perfect bed for kids.

A bed entirely of TENCEL® transforms a night’s sleep into the most pleasant thing in the world.

Pure Fiber

Pure nature for children’s tender skin

Children’s skin is very sensitive and reacts to chemical irritations which can cause reddening or a rash. TENCEL® is exceptionally pure. The fiber is by nature pure and not burdened with pesticides or other agricultural chemicals. Another advantage is the eco-friendly production process for TENCEL®. The revolutionary thing about this is that the solvent is treated in a closed loop. it is recovered by 99.7 % and does not stay in the fiber.

Hygiene the natural way

TENCEL® is pure. bacteria have a tough life on TENCEL®. The enormous moisture absorption nips the formation of bacteria in the bud since it is immediately moved to the inside of the fiber. Therefore, no film of moisture forms on the fiber, preventing the basis for the growth of bacteria.

Hygiene is important for kids. Tests show that the growth of bacteria is reduced in TENCEL® without any chemical additives. In synthetic fibers on the other hand, the growth of bacteria rises by 2,000 times.

Botanic Fiber

The future belongs to our children!

Kids just love nature and adults should take responsibility to maintain it. TENCEL® comes from Nature and returns to Nature. The fiber is extracted from eucalyptus wood grown exclusively on forest plantations which practice sustainability. in ecological terms, eucalyptus is an interesting raw material since it is subject to rapid growth and survives without artificial irrigation or gene manipulation.

Going gentle on resources for the generations to come

The production process used for TENCEL® is characterized by its responsibility towards the environment. This refers to the way it deals with the raw materials and the production process itself.. Another important environmental aspect is the water consumption. during production – which includes pulp production - TENCEL® consumes only 1% of the water quantity used to grow conventional cotton. Growing cotton requires extensive irrigation systems. Meanwhile, the Eucalyptus trees used for TENCEL grow from natural rain water. Eucalyptus is grown on border-line agricultural land which cannot be used to grow agricultural crops. one important asset is, however, that the fiber yield of TENCEL® is ten times higher than conventional cotton.

Taking responsibility and saving resources.

Comparison between Bamboo and Cotton

HISTORY OF BAMBOO FIBER

Among all the crazes that have emerged in the 21st century,‘going green’ has taken the front seat in
almost every industry.

Even the fashion industry which is known for its concern in creating style and setting new trends has
incorporated ways to be more environmentally friendly. With the growing popularity of new fabric made
from bamboo, designers have slowly begun to use bamboo fabric in many collections.

HISTORY OF BAMBOO FIBER
Historically in Asia, bamboo was used for the hand-made production of paper. But thanks to modern
manufacturing, bamboo pulp is now capable of creating bamboo fiber which can be used to make yarn
and fabric. Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass, the
bamboo fiber is then made by pulping the bamboo grass until it separates into thin threads of fiber, which
is then spun and dyed for weaving into cloth.

CHARACTERISTICS OF BAMBOO
Bamboo fabric is similar in softness to silk. Since the fibers are without chemical treatment, they are
naturally smoother and rounder with no sharp spurs to irritate the skin, making bamboo
fabric hypoallergenic and perfect for those who experience allergic reactions to other natural fibers such
as wool or hemp. On that same note, bamboo is also antibacterial and antifungal. This is because
bamboo possesses an anti-bacteria and bacteriostatic bio-agent called “bamboo kun” , allowing it
to naturally flourish and grow in the wild without the use of pesticides or fertilizers. This beneficial quality
of the plant remains in its textile form, killing all bacteria keeping the wearer feeling fresher and odor free
for longer, making the garment healthier and more hygienic.
Unlike many of the other fabrics, bamboo is extremely breathable. The natural bamboo plant keeps itself
cool in the heat and like its other properties, is also maintained in its fabric form. The cross-section of the
bamboo fiber is covered with micro-gaps giving the fabric better moisture absorption and ventilation.
As a result, it is able to keep the wearer almost two degrees cooler in the heat and noticeably warmer in
the cold. Bamboo fabric is also “anti static and UV protective as it cuts out 98% of harmful UV
rays”  providing the wearer with another beneficial quality from bamboo made clothing.

ECO-FRIENDLINESS OF BAMBOO
The most enticing aspect of bamboo fabric is that it is the most eco-friendly fabric on the planet.
Bamboo, a type of tropical grass, has an extensive rooting system that grows on average four to six new shoots a year, naturally replenishing itself. It is also 100% biodegradable, the most renewable resource
on our planet, and provides an abundance of usable oxygen making it a crucial element in the balance
between oxygen and carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.
As bamboo fabric is gaining popularity, there will naturally be an increase in growth and demand for more
bamboo plants. This could ultimately lead to an increased amount of photosynthesis and result in another
alternative to combating greenhouse gases.

How to make nylon???

http://youtubeproxy.eu/index.php?url=watch?v=c7ihpZhCj6k

Carbon footprint in textile wet processing

Global warming and "carbon footprint" are the buzzwords now. The importance and the consequential long term devastating effects of "Climate Change" on the environment, habitat and even the existence of our mother Earth are being widely discussed. This warming of atmospheric temperature is attributed to the emission of Green House Gases (GHG)– carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide and fluorocarbons being the major contributors. The recent years have witnessed exponential increase in the emission of Green House Gases (GHG) raising the atmospheric temperature. It is reported that there is about 6% rise only in the year 2010 (releasing about 500 mn MT) majority of which, is attributed to the top three pollutants of the world - China, the USA and India. The Green House Gas emission is caused by the production and consumption of fuels, manufactured goods, materials, wood, roads, and services. For simplicity of reporting, it is often expressed in terms of the amount of carbon dioxide, or its equivalent of other GHGs, emitted. Just as walking on the sand leaves a footprint, burning fuel leaves carbon dioxide in the air, which is called a "Carbon Footprint". Thus the carbon footprint basically relates to the amount of carbon released into the air based on the fuel consumption. The Carbon Footprint is assessed in 2 layers: Primary footprint - monitors carbon emission directly through energy consumption - burning fossil fuels for electricity, heating and transportation, etc. Secondary footprint- relates to indirect carbon emissions (Life cycle of products and Sustainability). Thus, the most effective way to decrease a carbon footprint is to either decrease the amount of energy needed for production or to decrease the dependence on carbon emitting fuels. The textile industry is one of the major consumers of water and fuel (energy required for electric power, steam and transportation). The per capita consumption of textiles is about 20 kg/year and increasing day by day. The world population has reached 7 billion out of which, almost 18% is from India. Thus the energy requirement and consequently the Carbon footprint of the textile industry in India is considerably high and at the same time the Textile Industry in India is expected to grow from an estimated size of US$ 70 billion today to US$ 220 billion by 2020, which would proportionately increase impact on our Carbon Footprint. Thus, it is imperative for us to take immediate steps and develop innovative technologies and sustainable solutions that can help reduce the environmental impact. The Government is also demanding industries to comply with stricter conditions for environmental protection. The estimated global consumption and processing of textile substrates is shown above. In India also, polyester and cotton constitute more than 80% of textile processing. The textile industry, according to the US Energy Information Administration, is the 5th largest contributor to CO2 emissions. Thus the textile industry is huge and is one of the largest sources of greenhouse gasses on Earth. In 2008, annual global textile production was estimated at 60 billion kg of fabric. The estimated energy and water needed to produce such quantity of fabric is considered to be: 1,074 bn kWh of electricity or 132 mn MT of coal. About 6-9 tn liters of water. Thus, the thermal energy required per metre of cloth is 4,500 - 5,500 Kcal and the electrical energy required per metre of cloth is 0.45 - 0.55 kwh. The carbon footprint of the textiles is estimated based on the "embodied energy' in the fabric, comprising all of the energy used at each step of the process needed to create that fabric. To estimate the embodied energy in any fabric it is necessary to add all the process steps from fibre to finished goods. Based on the fibre used the carbon footprint of various fibres varies a lot. Further, based on the study done by the Stockholm Environment Institute on behalf of the Bio Regional Development Group, the energy used (and therefore the CO2 emitted) to create 1 ton of spun fibre is much higher for synthetics than for cotton: For natural fibres, the energy consumption starts at planting and field operations - mechanised irrigation, weed control, pest control and fertilizers (manure vs synthetic chemicals), harvesting and yields. Synthetic fertilizer use is a major component of conventional agriculture: making one ton of nitrogen fertilizer emits nearly 7 tons of CO2 equivalent greenhouse gases. In case of synthetics, the fibres are made from fossil fuels, where very high amount of energy is consumed in extracting the oil from the ground as well as in the production of the polymers. Natural fibres, in addition to having a smaller carbon footprint have many additional benefits: being able to be degraded by micro-organisms and composted (improving soil structure); in this way the fixed CO2 in the fibre will be released and the cycle closed. On the other hand, Synthetic fibres do not decompose: in landfills they release heavy metals and other additives into soil and groundwater. Recycling requires costly separation, while incineration produces pollutants - in the case of high density polyethylene, 3 tons of CO2 emissions are produced for every 1 ton of material burnt. Substituting Organic fibres for conventionally grown fibres considerably helps reduce carbon footprint based on: Elimination of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides and genetically modified organisms (GMOs), which is an improvement in human health and agrobiodiversity. Conserves water - making the soil more friable so rainwater is absorbed better - lessening irrigation requirements and erosion. An additional dimension to consider during processing: environmental pollution. Conventional textile processing is highly polluting: Up to 2,000 chemicals are used in textile processing, many of them known to be harmful to human (and animal) health. Some of these chemicals evaporate while some are dissolved in treatment water, which is discharged to our environment. The application of these chemicals uses copious amounts of water. In fact, the textile industry is the largest industrial polluter of fresh water on the planet. Various ways and methods for reducing the carbon footprint during textile processing have been reported and widely published. Commercially viable products are available in market and being supplied by many organisations. Some of the major areas of work are: A. Machinery/Equipment related Use of low and ultra low liquor ratio machines - to reduce consumption of water during pretreatment, dyeing and post dyeing wash off sequence. Simultaneously reducing the energy required for water heating at various processing steps and effective load on the effluent treatment. Preheating of process water by solar panels to reduce consumption of other nonrenewable energy sources (fossil fuels, wood, husk, etc). Adequate insulation of dyeing, drying and stenter machines and appropriate heat recovery systems to avoid undesired energy loss. Recycle and reuse of process water and alkali by installing adequate filtration process. B. Process related Combined scour and bleach process, combined peroxide neutralising and bio softening process, one bath one step dyeing of P/C blends, etc so as to reduce number of textile processing stages and thereby reduce consumption of water & energy. Cold Pad Batch (CPB) preparation and dyeing for energy conservation. Continuous processing of knits. Pad/dry vs pad/dry/pad/steam, minimising steam and water consumption during washing processes and minimising number of drying processes. Foam dyeing, finishing and coating. Improving Right First Time (RFT) and Right Every Time (RET) dyeing performance. C. Chemicals and dyes Use of enzymes - biodegradable & non-corroding for desizing, scouring, bleach neutralising, bio-softening and post-dyeing wash-off. Suppliers and formulators of enzymes are offering specialised products for combined processes to reduce number of processing steps. Cationisation of cotton for salt-free dyeing with reactive and direct dyes. High fixation Reactive dyeing with reduced salt for exhaustion. Digital inkjet printing. Low temp curing pigment printing. D. Waste water treatment Use of physical, biological and activated carbon systems. Waste water treatment sludge used/sold for fuel. Atul Ltd, pioneer in manufacturing of dyestuffs in India and a major producer of dyes, pigments and textile chemicals of international repute is a member of ETAD and supplies products conforming to various global safety and eco conformance standards like GOTS, REACh, Blue Sign, etc. Atul has already initiated and developed products and processes to reduce Carbon Footprint not only during manufacturing of dyestuffs but also during the textile processing. Use of renewable energy source based on hydroelectric power of 45 MW, control of gaseous emissions by use of sophisticated containment devices and a modern ETP and water treatment plant for recycling and reusing of water during dyestuff manufacturing. Atul has reduced greenhouse gas emission by approx 1,50,000 MT/year through innovative technologies and received host country approval for three projects under Clean Development Mechanism (CDM). Being the largest manufacturer of vat, sulphur and reactive dyes in India, the focus is on cotton processing and products for reducing water and energy during colouration and subsequent processes. Given below are few initiatives and achievements in this direction. Tulacon C process: These are speciality for the mulated Vat dyes in liquid form, developed for application by a simple and efficient process of Pad-Dry-Cure on woven cotton fabric and its blends in open width form for a wide gamut of pastel shades. The advantage of this process over conventional Vat dyeing by exhaust or PDPS continuous method is mainly in terms of substantial water and energy saving. The conventional Vat dyeing on Jigger consumes about 15 - 20 L/kg (considering MLR of 3 and light shade) consisting minimum steps of - dyeing, rinsing, oxidation, soaping and neutralisation wash. This process requires temp of about 50 - 60 deg C depending on class of Vat dyes for 1 - 2 hrs depending on the fabric length during dyeing and further during oxidation and soaping. Additionally, energy is consumed during fabric drying and thermo-chemical finishing. In case of conventional PDPS process, it involves dye padding-drying, chemical padding and steaming followed by a wash off sequence on continuous washing range, drying and finishing. This too consumes substantial amount of water during washing off and energy for intermittent drying, steaming and finishing process. In comparison to this, the specific advantage of Tulacon C range and process is in terms of: Ready to use and easy to handle liquid form. Simple application process. No intermittent washing and NO post-dyeing wash-off sequence. A combined dyeing and finishing process. As the dye bath chemicals confer desired soft feel minimising post dyeing thermo-chemical finishing step. Considerable saving in water, time and energy. Excellent lab to bulk reproducibility. No wash-off - no effluent generation– Environment friendly. Adjust pH between 5 - 6 with Tulachem Demin C (non volatile, organic acid having buffering capacity). Pad (60 - 70% expression) - Dry at 110 - 1300C - Cure at 1700C for 30 - 45 sec (Cotton)/1900C for 30 sec (Polyester/cellulosic blends). Infra-red drying can be introduced prior to hot flue drying. A general and indicative carbon footprint in terms of water and energy saving based on estimations of usage during dyeing, post dyeing wash off and effluent treatment is considered to be: Tularevs XL dyes: - A high tinctorial, high fixative, low wash off, long lasting, sustainable Reactive dyeing system. Compared to the conventional reactive dyes, which exhibit comparatively low dye exhaustion and fixation levels and proportionately high wash off of un-reacted hydrolysed dyestuffs, the molecular reengineered Tularevs XL Reactive dyes exhibit high colour yield and less wash-off. These warm dyes have similar dyeing profile, which helps achieve uniform level dyeing and right first time (RFT) performance. Owing to the high fixation levels, this compact range of dyes covering wide shade gamut achieves outstanding wet fastness properties, long lasting colour shades. The low wash-off ensures low effluent generation. Though the exact impact and saving in carbon footprint is not yet ascertained, the overall water and energy saving due to short dyeing and wash-off cycle is practically proven. Thus the advantages envisaged are: Increase productivity: Based on shorter process cycle, RFT and RET (Right-Every-Time) behaviour. Cost optimisation: High colour strength for optimum shade built-up, easy wash off resulting in reduction in utility cost. Eco- conformance: Meeting international product safety standards and eco norms. Optimum fastness: Satisfies stringent fastness and quality expectations of major brands. Some other products and processes providing considerable reduction in consumption of water and energy include: Rucoflow CPB - a ready to use, easy to handle liquid buffered alkali recommended for use in CPB Reactive dyeing and print fixation for partial or complete replacement of Sodium Silicate. Rucoflow CPB confers optimum alkalinity desired for dye fixation, assists ease of dye penetration inside the fibre, improves colour yield, ensures uniformity of dyeing and is easy to wash off. Thus, helps in optimising the water and energy consuming wash-off sequence required during Silicate fixation process. Additionally the free flowing liquid form ensures eous for the auto dosing systems. The specific advantages of Reactive dyeing with Rucoflow CPB system over the conventional CPB dyeing system are: Sodium Silicate being: Viscose fluid, available in varying Na2O : SiO2 ratios difficult to control desired alkalinity for Reactive dye fixation. High viscosity and presence of impurities in commercial grades affect choking/clogging of dosing systems. Difficult to wash off - requiring large quantity of water. Tends to impart undesired harsh handle, surface feel - requiring subsequent higher dosage of finishing softeners. # Difficult effluent treatment, especially in case of intended water recycling by RO process - blocking of RO membranes. Rucogen SOP - a novel washing off agent specifically designed to minimise Reactive dye soaping process and improve wet fastness properties. Generally, in conventional washing off sequence, depending on the depth of shade about 4 to 8 post dyeing wash cycles involving soaping and intermittent hot and cold washes are commercially practiced. Rucogen SOP (Save Our Planet) is a unique Ter-polymer derivative designed to ensure optimum removal of unfixed, un-reacted or hydrolysed dye from the fibre without adversely affecting the adequately formed dye-fibre bond and avoids re-deposition or back staining. Thus, lowers the carbon footprint by reducing number of wash off baths and load of coloured water effluent. The specific advantage of Rucogen SOP over the conventional non ionic or anionic washing off agents is in terms of: Has affinity for the dyestuff, being a mildly cationic polymeric compound. High emulsifying and dispersing property helps prevent agglomeration of unfixed dye and wash off residues in the bath. Forms a stable metal ion complex and avoid adverse effect on dyestuff in case of presence of water hardening agents. Exhibits dye transfer inhibition property by not allowing the dye re-deposition or back staining. Improves wet fastness properties. Many such innovative products and processes are being developed by researches and organisations across the globe for minimising the processing steps, offering alternative sustainable technologies for ultimate reduction, reuse and recycling of water and conservation of energy to reduce Carbon Footprint.The sustainability aspects, like water and energy saving are key concerns of the textile industry and novel technologies, in turn, show the ways to achieve such savings. References June, 2009, C K, Chow Textile Asia www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/aer/txt/ptb1204.html. www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/iynf/sustainable.html. Rupp Jurg: Ecology and Economy in Textile Finishing, Textile World, Nov/Dec 2008. www.domain-b.com/environment/20090403_carbon_footprint.html. article originally published in http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4652

Dry finishing: Enhancing value of denim

Denim is more than just a cotton fabric; it inspires strong opinions within the hearts of historians, designers, teenagers, movie stars, reporters and writers. Interest bordering on passion can be found among textile and costume historians today, especially in the debate over the true origins of denim. These experts have put decades of work into their research; here is a summary of the prevailing opinions about the birth of denim, followed by a discussion of the way Levi Strauss & Co has helped to contribute to denim’s movement around the world.

Approximately five billion pairs of jeans are produced worldwide each year. Jeans have been a popular item of clothing for several decades with a long manufacturing history. Jeans were first used by dock workers in Genoa several centuries ago as they valued the material for its durability. In this article, the authors discuss about denim dry finishing and its importance.

Garment finishing is one of the finishing methods applied on garment, with the use of new technologies and equipment enabling to obtain the desired results. For finishing of denim fabrics, a range of treatment methods is used. They all are aimed at new possible effects of fabric appearance, namely mill wash or rinse wash, stone wash, moon wash, sand wash, bleach, over dyed-look, damaged-look, scrubbed-look, sand blast, PP spray, whisker effects, 3-D effects, etc. Particularly dry finishing creates many effects on denim fabric; it stimulates the customers to buy, and thereby increasing its market potential in the denim market.

Dry finishing

The plenty of jeans in various hues & styles that are seen around everywhere, undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. The direction in fashion is varied across all areas particularly in denim dry finishing, whether worn or torn to wrinkled or pressed; these trends can appeal to a wide range of consumers. These can be achieved by a variety of denim dry processing techniques, which are mainly dependent on physical and on chemical abrasion of the surface dye, thereby producing different wash-down looks to the denim fabrics.

Denim hand sand/scraping

Hand sand is a step, which is generally being done in rigid form of garment to get distress look. Location can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall/global application as per standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garment in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different numbers generally starting from 40 till 600 and above; higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper.

In the garment industry 220, 320 & 400 number emery papers are most popular & widely used. Purpose of doing this process is to make used, worn-out look to the garment. The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength & intensity need. Feathering/Merging white sanded part to dark blue area is done in such a way that it should look natural & not artificial. Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical it is up to operator’s convenience), even it can be done on plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results.

Sand blasting

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high-speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the effect appearing is very similar to the worn out jeans. Sand blast provides a very uniform result, which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its speciality is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effect.

High pressure of air produces a powerful backward thrust to operator so it is always recommended to fix the gun in appropriate stands rather than placing it on shoulders or using it with bare hands. On some fabrics sand blasting is not successful for it covers the characteristics of fabric. Especially in fabrics, which are famous for slub patterns it flattens the look. Specified areas for sand blasting are front thigh, back seat, back panel near bottom or front panel around knee. Some time full body blasting is also done for giving a unique look to fabric. Hot spots may be designed for more real look on front knees or back seat by intense blasting in these areas. Two methods of sand blasting are commonly used by the denim garment producers:

• Mechanical
• Manual

In the mechanical method, sand is mixed in a chamber with pressurised air and sprayed on the garment to rub off the colour of the fabric from the sprayed area. The function of chamber is to prevent the sprayed sand from spreading and polluting the environment.

In the manual method, sand paper is used to create the effect. The sand paper is attached to a wooden block, which is rubbed on the surface of the garment. This process is labour intensive and two persons are required to create the effect on one garment. This department is usually on contract, to be paid on pieces rate basis.

Whiskers/Moustaches, Chevron, Knee Star, & Hot Spot

On denim, Whiskers/Moustaches, Chevrons are nothing but the worn-out lines/impression generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs & pattern available. This is being done manually with help of sharp edge emery paper roller on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placements & pattern must be marked on garment, which will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.

Hot spots are heavy/intense area on thigh or knee, which is made purposely to create used-look & on knee area if any whiskers lines are there, called knee star. All the above operations are carried out in width direction and hence its appears intense than hand sand with less strokes, because hand sand is carried out in length direction.

Tacking & grinding

This is a process, which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast (rigid & washed) on waistband, bottom hemps, back pocket & front pocket corners, etc and after completing wash cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening. Grinding is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn-out effect. Many different makes of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market, which run on pneumatic system.

Potassium permanganate spry/rub & bleach spray

Potassium permanganate (KmNO4) spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about potassium permanganate spray is that this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colours completely then it is considered to be ready for the next process. It is always followed by neutralisation process. Sodium Metabisulphate is most commonly used as neutraliser. A number of products are available in market for neutralisation process like sodium Metabisulfate selected on the basis of effect required on blasted area.

Potassium permanganate spray best done in specific spray booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garment. Garment are mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is fully exposed. Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids, men, trousers, jackets, shirts, etc. The booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower water is further treated with mild quantities of neutraliser before adding to main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low concentrations then there is no need to treat shower water. This mild potassium permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to keep the water clean and germs free.

Potassium permanganate spray concentrations range from 0.25 gm per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas black sulfur fabric requires high concentrations to treat with. Sulfur is not much affected with potassium permanganate and hence requires high concentrations and even sometime multiple spray operations. It is more effective to add potassium permanganate brushing to aid the spray effect. It is very important to equip the operator with gloves, gas mask and gaggles. Long time breathing in potassium permanganate spray may cause health complications and so proper preventive measures are to be taken for this department.

Garment are mounted on air-filled rubber dummies and chemical is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follows:

1. Distance of spray gun to garment: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect whereas distant spray will result in more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges from one foot to two and a half feet.

2. Air to water ratio of gun: This is to be set very carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO₄ drops on garment resulting in bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required.

3.Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration: Of course, this will control the extent of brightness.

PP spray is being done on denim garment to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than background indigo colour shade. This can be applied by spray gun by towel dipped in to PP solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralisation in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash.

Patch and repairs along with bleach parts

These are totally manual processes to give uniqueness to denim and to make it look vintage. First cut or damage the units intentionally to desired area & then make hand repairs or machine repair to look natural. Diluted bleach can be used to spot the desired area followed by neutralisation in wet process. These process are time-consuming, hence productivity is low & reproducibility is very difficult but similar aesthetics can be achieved.

Resin application (3D Effect)

Resin (formaldehyde free) when used for achieving 3-D effect, rigid look, etc, the process can be done by spraying or dipping the garment in resin, catalyst, silicon & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed. After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3-D effect. After making it, is should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual.

If resin is not cured properly, 3-D effect will not be permanent & can cause skin irritation/rashes to the wearer. Highly skilled operators need to execute this process in order to get consistency & uniformity. Whole garment can have crushed look by resin dip & crushed manually followed by oven curing. Silicon plays an important role in getting softer hand after oven.

Conclusion

The scope of denim dry finishing is very broad. Only innovative products will be able to open up new markets and new horizons for denim industry. To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research and development. Globalisation has opened the door to competition at the highest level. Every industry should now produce products that are best in terms of quality and price. Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a high competitive price will survive and prosper.

The driving force for change in denim dry finishes is the need for a competitive strategy by cost conscious finisher to add the value. Compatibility is essential to provide short multifunctional finishes that can be applied simultaneously. Innovative and enhanced results are possible through application of various types of denim finishing, which in turn would bring greater financial profits. To achieve this, the garment manufacturers are required to develop a futuristic vision and take appropriate measures to overcome the problems of denim processing.

Article copied from http://www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4330

What is Rayon, Modal, and Tencel?

Rayon, Modal, and Tencel - Environmental Friends or Foes

Most everyone is familiar with rayon (also called viscose). Fewer people are familiar with modal and lyocell. Most people, even those familiar with rayon, don’t realize that all three of these fibers are called “cellulosic fibers” since the natural material that makes up the fiber is cellulose, a component of all plants. The cellulose is often derived from wood which has an average cellulose content of 40%.

Before answering the question in the title of this article, I’ll provide an understanding of these fibers and their properties. I don’t want to play favorites, however one company stands out above all the rest in regard to these three fibers. Since it’s not possible to discuss all companies, and due to the prominence of this company in particular as an innovative leader in fiber development and environmental protection, I will refer to them while also discussing the generic factors of these fibers.

This company is Lenzing AG of Austria. They manufacture more cellulosic fiber from trees than any other company in the world. Lenzing has been producing viscose, the first generation cellulose fiber, since 1938. Throughout this article I’ve interspersed dates of development and manufacturing capabilities by Lenzing as representative of the historical development and growth of these fibers.

Three Generations of Technology

Rayon was the first generation of these cellulosic fibers. Rayon is known by the names viscose rayon and art silk (abbreviated from “artificial silk”) in the textile industry. It usually has a high luster quality giving it a bright shine. Modal is the second generation and is known for its softness. Lyocell is third generation technology. Tencel® is Lenzing’s brand name for lyocell. Lyocell’s advantages include its environmental friendliness of the chemical processing combined with its softness, drape, resistance to growth of bacteria which create odors, and other properties.

Unlike most man-made fibers, rayon, modal, and lyocell are not synthetic. They are made from cellulose, commonly derived from wood pulp, and more recently from bamboo. They are neither a truly synthetic fiber, in the sense of synthetics coming from petroleum, nor are they natural fibers, in the sense of processing fibers that are produced directly from plants or animals (such as wool). However, their properties and characteristics are more similar to those of natural cellulosic fibers, such as cotton, flax (linen), hemp and jute, than those of thermoplastic, petroleum-based synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyester.

All three fibers are referred to generically as “regenerated cellulosic fibers” due to the combination of the natural raw cellulosic material and the chemical manufacturing process that breaks down the cellulose so it can be “regenerated” into a fiber from the original pulp.

Let’s Take Them In Sequence Starting With Rayon

Rayon is the first generation of these fibers and the one that further enhancements were built upon. Rayon was the first manufactured (regenerated) fiber. Although the first process for its manufacturing occurred about 1855 and was called “artificial silk”, it wasn’t until the 1890s that a commercially viable process was created for its manufacture. The first patent for “artificial silk” occurred in 1894. It took until 1910 for the first U.S. commercial rayon fiber production to begin. The term rayon was officially adopted by the textile industry in 1924.

Although the first staple fiber useable for clothing was produced in 1916, rayon was only produced as a filament fiber until the 1930s. High performance rayons, such as tire cord, did not appear until the late 1930s. Invention of modifiers in 1947 brought on super tire cords and marked the beginning of the high-performance rayon fibers.

Basic Principles of Rayon Fiber Production

There are many different processes for manufacturing rayon that vary between the chemicals used and their subsequent impact on the environment. As a very shortened summary of the manufacturing process, the production of rayon, which also applies to modal and lyocell, chemically converts purified cellulose (often from trees) into a soluble compound. A solution of this compound is passed through a spinneret (similar to the holes in a showerhead) to form soft filaments that are then converted or “regenerated” into almost pure cellulose in the final product.

Much of the commercial rayon manufacturing utilizes the “viscose” process dating to the early 1900s. In this process the purified cellulose is converted to xanthate, dissolving the xanthate in dilute caustic soda, and then regenerating the cellulose from the product as it emerges from the spinneret.

Rayon fabrics have different strength and stretch characteristics created by adjusting the drawing process applied in spinning. “Regular rayon” has the largest market share. Typically found in apparel and home furnishings, it is identified on labels as “rayon” or "viscose.” The distinguishing property of regular rayon is its low wet strength. As a result, it becomes unstable and may stretch or shrink when wet. Dry cleaning is usually recommended to preserve the appearance of regular rayon fabrics. If machine washed, untreated regular rayons can shrink as much as 10 percent.

The desire for creating a higher wet strength of rayon led to the development of modal as the second generation of this cellulosic fiber. Modal is a High Wet Modulus (HWM) rayon which has virtually the same properties as regular rayon plus high wet strength. HWM rayons can be machine washed and tumble dried and perform much like cotton in similar end uses. HWM rayons can also be mercerized, like cotton, for increased strength and luster.

Other types of rayon have been developed for specialized end uses. These include disposable, non-woven markets, and high-absorption rayon fibers with moisture-holding properties for disposable diapers, hygiene and incontinence pads, as well as medical supplies.

Rayon’s Characteristics

Rayon's cellulosic base contributes many properties similar to those of cotton or other natural cellulosic fibers. Rayon is more moisture absorbent than cotton, soft, comfortable to wear, drapes well, and is easily dyed in a wide range of colors. It does not build up static electricity, nor will it pill unless the fabric is made from short, low-twist yarns. Rayon does not insulate body heat making it ideal for use in hot and humid climates.

Rayon has moderate dry strength and abrasion resistance. Like other cellulosic fibers, it is not resilient, which means that it will wrinkle. Rayon withstands ironing temperatures slightly less than those of cotton. It may be attacked by silverfish and termites, but generally resists insect damage. It will mildew, but that generally is not a problem.

Modal

Modal is a second generation regenerated cellulosic fiber and a variation of rayon. Lenzing Modal® is made from sustainably harvested beech trees in PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification schemes) certified European forests. PEFC is the world's largest forest certification organization. Modal fibers with a high wet modulus were originally developed in Japan in 1951. Lenzing started selling modal fibers in 1964. In 1977, Lenzing started using an environmentally friendly bleaching method for pulp for their cellulosic fibers.

Modal’s distinguishing characteristics are its high wet strength and its extra softness. It is sometimes referred to as “soft as a feather” and the “softest fiber in the world.” In addition to its use in general apparel, its softness makes it especially ideal for body contact clothing such as lingerie and under garments.

Due to its high wet strength, modal can be machine washed and tumble dried. Modal fibers are dimensionally stable and do not shrink or get pulled out of shape when wet like many rayons. They are also wear resistant and strong while maintaining a soft, silky feel. Modal fibers have found a wide variety of uses in clothing, outerwear and household furnishings. They are often blended with cotton, wool or synthetic fibers and allow easy tone-in-tone dyeing (may be done with environmentally friendly dyes depending on the manufacturer).

Modal is about 50% more hygroscopic, or water-absorbent, per unit volume than cotton. It’s designed to dye just like cotton and is color-fast when washed in warm water. Even after repeated washing, modal remains absorbent, soft and supple.

The colors in modal typically remain brilliant and strong. Graying, as with 100 % cotton textiles, does not occur. Bleaches or whiteners may not be necessary at all. However, if you do use these in any of your laundering, be sure you use environmentally friendly ones.

The smooth surface characteristics of the modal fiber make it impossible for mineral deposits from water, such as lime scum, to be deposited on the textiles thus preventing fabric hardening after repeated washings. This “dry rigidity” in some fabrics is caused by the mineral incrustation on the fiber after repeated washing.

Lyocell

Lyocell has numerous advantages over rayon and modal in its properties as well as its manufacturing process. One of the major “claims to fame” of lyocell is its ability to absorb excess liquid (perspiration) and quickly release it into the atmosphere. It does this while being resistant to developing odors.

In 1990, Lenzing’s lyocell pilot plant started production. “Lyocell” is the generic name of the manufacturing process and fiber. Tencel® is Lenzing’s brand name. A full-scale lyocell plant went into operation in 1997.

The skin is the largest human respiratory organ. Lyocell supports the natural ability of the skin to act as a protective shell to regulate body temperature and maintain water balance. A subjective feeling of well-being depends considerably on moisture absorption and on surface structure of the fibers.

Nanofibrils are the key to the performance of lyocell. This is the first cellulose fiber to use this nano technology. The nanofibrils are hydrophilic (a strong attraction to absorb water) and optimize absorption of moisture with excellent cooling properties by releasing moisture to the air. Lyocell controls and regularly absorbs moisture, 50% more than cotton and even more than wool. By contrast synthetics do not absorb moisture.

Rougher fibers can lead to skin irritation. The microscopic surfaces of lyocell fibers, due to the nanofibrils, are smoother than the surfaces of modal, cotton and wool. It is the combination of this extremely smooth surface of lyocell and excellent moisture absorption that makes lyocell textiles feel so soft and pleasant to the skin, making lyocell ideal for active wear, clothing for sensitive skin and home textiles such as bedding.

Lyocell prevents the growth of bacteria, which cause odors, naturally without the addition of chemical treatment which may cause allergic reaction and are environmentally unfriendly. Bacterial growth is prevented through the moisture management of the fiber. When moisture is produced it is directly absorbed from the skin and transported to the inside of the fiber. Thus no water film is produced on the skin where bacteria could grow.

Clothes remain odor free for multiple wearings much longer than cotton. This also means fewer washings and saving on water and energy as well as on the wear and tear that occurs on any fabric from the washing and drying processes. The wear and tear is revealed from all the lint coming off your clothing that you see in your dryer. It is machine washable in cool water. Fabric softeners are not needed or recommended.

By contrast, synthetics have hundreds to thousands of times higher bacteria count over the same time periods as lyocell. Chemical additives are often used on synthetics and many cotton products to reduce the growth of bacteria.

Lyocell itself is hypoallergenic meaning that it is not likely to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals. This is why it is used for clothing and home furnishings by individuals with Multiple Chemical Sensitivities (MCS) and those with allergy sensitivities, psoriasis, and neurodermatitis. It is also anti-static and doesn’t cling.

Lyocell Variations

Lyocell manufacturing is extremely flexible to create a diversity of fabric aesthetics. Manipulating or controlling the fibrils, the very fine hairs found on the outer fibers, produces a wide variety of fabrications, from rugged denim to suede-like or peach touch surfaces to a clean, smooth silky touch. As with silk, this fibrillation is responsible for the pleasant and soft hand of lyocell fabrics.

Lyocell can also be manipulated to create an excellent fill material. Lyocell “fill” for bedding has excellent moisture management and temperature regulation to create a pleasant and dry climate during sleeping.

Lyocell fabrics with natural elongation and recovery properties can be created without having to use elastomeric fibers such as spandex. The high tenacity of lyocell in both a wet and dry state increases the dimensional stability of the end product.

As a side note, bamboo for clothing is also a regenerated cellulose fiber. The manufacturing process is typically either the rayon process or the more environmentally friendly lyocell manufacturing process.

Environmental Friends or Foes? Can These Fabrics Be Organic or Sustainable?

Rayon, modal, and lyocell are produced from renewable cellulosic plants such as beech trees, pine trees, and bamboo. All three fibers are bio-degradable. Specifically Lenzing Viscose® and Lenzing Modal® are produced from sustainably harvested beech trees. Tencel® is produced from sustainably harvested eucalyptus trees. Eucalyptus grows very quickly and without any artificial irrigation, pesticides, fertilizers or gene manipulation that may be used in “wood farms” for industrial use. Eucalyptus can also be planted even on “marginal” lands which cannot be used for the production of food products.

Since rayon, modal, and lyocell are regenerated fibers they do not qualify for Organic certifications. Therefore, other recognized eco standards that review the entire process chain for growing and harvesting the trees through the manufacturing and treatment processes must be applied to these fibers. One such award that has been given to Lenzing for Tencel® is the European Eco-Label that addresses compliance with high environmental standards for production and products. Another is the PEFC certification, as mentioned above, that also applies to the forests from which the trees are harvested to make Tencel®.

As early as 1963, Lenzing started recycling the chemicals from pulp production after the company switched from the calcium bisulphite method to an environmentally friendly magnesium bisulphite method for Lenzing Viscose®. However, there are many manufacturers of rayon. Even with the advancements that have been made over time, most rayon manufacturing processes in use today would not be considered environmentally friendly.

Also, bamboo, if processed with the rayon process, would not be considered environmentally friendly manufacturing. This accounts for almost all bamboo processing as of 2009. However, I consider the use of bamboo to be an evolutionary process in that the farming of it is much more favorable than non-organic cotton farming and it has many advantages even over organically farmed cotton. We must push for it to use the lyocell process in the manufacturing of bamboo in order to consider bamboo textile to be a truly environmentally friendly product.

The various chemical and waste products which result from Lenzing’s production process are recycled or sold. For example, xylose, which is the base material for xylitol, a caries-inhibiting natural sweetener is used in the food industry while sodium sulphate, a by-product of fiber production, is used in the production of glass. The remaining wood not used for pulp production is used in thermal plants to generate heat as well as energy for the Lenzing production facility.

Lyocell manufacturing, and Tencel® in particular, is an extremely environmentally friendly process and the most friendly of these three fibers. The revolutionary aspect of Tencel® manufacturing is the recovery and reuse of up to 99.8% of the solvent and the remaining emissions are broken down in biological water treatment plants. In fact, the solvent is not acidic. The harmlessness of the solvent has been proven in dermatological and toxicological tests. One can put their bare hand in the solvent without harm (although it’s probably not advisable to leave it there). Also, no toxic substances remain in the fiber.

The fiber yield per acre from the trees used in the Lenzing fibers is up to ten times higher than that of cotton. Also, cotton needs up to 10-20 times more water than required for lyocell fibers.

Of the total environmental impact of textile goods, much of it comes from the care of the textiles while in use. With lyocell fabrics, there is no need for fabric softener or whitening agents or bleach which add cost to the consumer and chemicals to our environment. Without these added agents, energy and water use can be decreased for spin and rinse cycles since shorter washing machine cycles can be used.

Lyocell is truly an environmental achievement in fiber production. It is derived from a renewable and sustainably harvested raw material, its manufacturing is sustainable, and its disposal is biodegradable to complete the full cycle.