Durability properties of Fibers.....!!!!

Book on Apparel Quality Control

Today’s increasing universal market conditions and the ever-increasing production has brought the question of quality to the forefront more than ever. In international trade of apparel, ‘quality’, ‘price’ and ‘punctual delivery’ is the most important basic factors in competition. In this competitive scenario, we must be aware of the quality and its impact. This book deals with different types of inspection, quality requirements for packing materials, testing of various physical and chemical properties of the fabric, quality assessment for sewing threads and tools mandatory for improving the quality.

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http://www.amazon.in/Apparel-Quality-Control-Periyasamy-Aravin/dp/3659573388/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1411472030&sr=1-3

Student Research Support Grant Program

This grant program assists undergraduate and graduate students with research in textile chemistry AATCC Foundation and on textile-related projects. The purpose is to encourage original research in textile design, materials, processing, and testing. Research findings will be made available to the public and will be used in the education of college and university students. Grants range from US$500 to US$4,000.

A stipend for up to $500 for travel and/or registration to present the research project at a technical conference will be considered based on the project and the particular event at which the presentation will be made. This stipend will be funded separately by AATCC Foundation upon request and approval. Priority will be given to presentations that will be made at the AATCC International Conference or other AATCC programs. Approval of the travel funds should be received prior to making travel arrangements. Reimbursements of up to $500 will be made once the Foundation receives proper receipts for pre-approved travel expenses.


See Guidelines for Student Research Support Grant Program for information on the application process, the research topics and the travel stipend. The deadline to receive applications is September 30.

For further information, contact Dr. Yiqi Yang, Chair, AATCC Foundation Student Research Support Program, University of Nebraska-Lincoln; telephone 402-472-5197,
e-mail yyang2@unlnotes.unl.edu.

Eligibility
All undergraduate and graduate levels

Selection Criteria
Priority to projects that involve laboratory and end-use correlation studies, wet processing research, or other topics identified by the Foundation.
Importance and practical value to textile science
Relevancy to current activities, issues, and/or needs of textile processing
Scientific contributions to the field of textiles
Experimental design and methodology
Applicant’s ability to conduct the proposed research
Feasibility of conducting the proposed research, based on size and scope of project,
facilities, and cost
Anticipated presentation at technical programs such as the AATCC International Conference, or technical committee meetings, and/or publication in technical textile magazines, journals or conference proceedings

http://www.aatcc.org/foundation/grants/RESEARCH.htm

Production strategies & systems for Garment manufacturing

The garment industry is undergoing enormous change which ends up in increased pressures on retailers and apparel manufacturers. Both retailers and manufacturers are challenged to compete, not just in terms of price, but also in delivery times and services offered. Recently, the apparel industries are market driven. To meet market demands and generate profit, firms must fully utilise their resources and successfully expand their productivity. The demands of today's market require the flexibility and fast throughput implied to quick response (QR) strategies. Consumers' demand for timely fashion, quality and value has made the manufacturers think of their production strategies. Production strategies The four identified production strategies are: Flexible Manufacturing Strategy This strives to be responsive to consumer demand for small orders and short lead times. Flexible Manufacturing Strategy means the capability to quickly and efficiently produce a variety of styles in small production runs with no defects. Industry adopting this strategy should effectively use the new technology and resources. In simple words the manufacturing firm adopting this strategy will operate with the flexibility needed to meet the demands of its consumers and the inherent ability to adapt immediate changes in the apparel market. Value-Added Manufacturing Strategy This is a quick response strategy that focuses on eliminating any unnecessary operations or handling that do not increase the value of a product which will lead to delay in production. The rationale of this strategy is that each operation performed on a style should add value. Operations such as inspection, bundling and sorting warehousing requires extra time, handling and personnel but the activities do not add any value to the product. Any industry which adopts value added environment needs to evaluate processes and find more efficient ways to produce a product. Agile Manufacturing Strategy Agility is the dynamic ability of the firm to strategically use change as a vehicle to grow in the new markets, with new products and to develop new competencies. it requires an openness to change and flexibility to purse change. The real strength of an agile manufacturer is its ability to anticipate consumer needs and through innovation lead the emergence of new products. Mass Customisation The goal of mass customisation is to produce products that can be made-to-order rather than made to plan. Products life cycle are short and the strategy requires processing single orders with immediate turn around. Considering the complexity of many apparel products and the number of processes that a style may require, the equipment, skills, information and the processes must be highly integrated. This may involve single ply cutting, single piece continuous floor manufacturing and integral information technology. Apparel consumers will soon have the opportunity to have garments fully customised including style, fit, fabric and trim wit delivery direct to their home in a few days at a price similar to the mass produced garments. Body scanning technology will be the basis of custom fit. A combination of computer aided design, single ply cutters, team based assembly will facilitate shipping the garment the same day it is ordered. Mass customisation will reduce the risk associated with trying to anticipate consumer demand months ahead of point of sale to the ultimate consumer. Production systems Another characteristic of the apparel manufacturer in the conceptual framework is the production system. An apparel production system is an integration of material handling, production processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow and generates finished products. Apparel manufacturers are adopting several types of production systems and the product characteristic is highly related to the type of production system. The best apparel production will depend on the mission and policies of the manufacturing firm as well as the capacities of the personnel engaged in the production departments; it also depends on the volume of production. Three types of production systems commonly used in mass production apparel are: Each system requires an appropriate management philosophy, materials handling methods, floor layout, and employee training. Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their specific production needs. Industries may use only one system, a combination of systems for one product line, or different systems for different product lines in the same plant. Progressive Bundle System The progressive bundle system (PBS) as the name implies the bundles of garment parts are moved sequentially from operation to operation. This system, often referred to as the traditional production system, has been widely used by apparel manufacturers for several decades and still is today. It was reported by the AAMA Technical Advisory Committee that 80 per cent of the apparel manufacturers used the bundle system and also predicted that use of bundle systems would decrease as firms seek more flexibility in their production systems. Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached. Some firms operate with a standard bundle size, while other firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Bundles are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets. Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room and given to the operator scheduled to complete the operation. One operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operation. Advantages: This system may allow better utilisation of specialised machines, as output from one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply several operators for the next operation. Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations. Disadvantages: It is driven by cost efficiency for individual operations. As the operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis, and are compensated by piece rates become extremely efficient at one operation and may not be willing to learn a new operation because it reduces their efficiency and earnings. Individual operators that work in a progressive bundle system are independent of other operators and the final product. Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bottlenecks within the system. Large quantities of work in process. This may lead to longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles, large inventory, extra handling, and difficulty in controlling inventory. Unit Production System A unit production system (UPS) is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transporter system to move garment components from work station to work station for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor. The overhead rail system consists of the main conveyor and accumulating rails for each work station. Carriers are moved along the main conveyor and switched to an accumulating rail at the work station where an operation is to be performed. At the completion of an operation the operator presses a button, and the carrier moves on to the next operation. Most unit production systems are linked to a computer control center that routes and tracks production and provides up-to-the-minute data for management decisions. The unit production system transports all the pieces of one complete product through the manufacturing process. An addressable product carrier takes all the pieces of one entire unit (ie, for trousers - backs, fronts, pockets, etc) through the different steps of production. Operations are performed at individual workstations. The end result is a cost-efficient product, processed from pieces to completion. Workflow in Unit Production System Load all the pieces in a product carrier The product carrier with the pieces will be routed through the different operation steps At every machine/operation the patented chain will position the product ideally Completed the product arrives to an unloading station. The empty product carrier returns to the loading station. Advantages: Improved lead times - less Work In Process. Improved space utilisation, Increased productivity Throughput time in the sewing room can be drastically reduced. Direct labor costs are reduced Indirect labor costs may be reduced by elimination of bundle handling and requiring fewer supervisors. Improved production and quality monitoring. Reduced space utilisation. Improved ergonomics. Disadvantages: Highly expensive - buying equipment and Cost of installing Specialised training for the system. Modular Production System A modular production system is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line. Teams may be used to perform all the operations or a certain portion of the assembly operations depending on the organisation of the module and processes required. Before a firm can establish a modular production system, it must prioritise its goals and make decisions that reflect the needs of the firm. With a team-based system operators are given the responsibility for operating their module to meet goals for throughput and quality. The team is responsible for maintaining a smooth work flow, meeting production goals, maintaining a specified quality level, and handling motivational support for the team. Team members develop an interdependency to improve the process and accomplish their goals. Interdependency is the relationship among team members that utilises everyone's strengths for the betterment of the team. Workflow in Modular Production A Modular Production System operates as a Pull System, with demand for work coming from the next operator in line to process the garment. Wastage is normal, and workflow is continuous and does not wait ahead of each operation. This increases the potentials for flexibility of styles and quantities of products that can be produced. Workflow within a module may be with a Single-piece hand-off, Kanban, or Bump-back system. If a single-piece hand-off is used, machines are arranged in a very tight configuration. As soon as an operation is completed the part is handed to the next operator for processing. Operations need to be well balanced as there is usually only one garment component between each operation. Some modules may operate with a buffer or small bundle of up to ten pieces of work between operators. If a small bundle is used, an operator will complete the operation on the entire bundle and carry the bundle to the next operation. An operator may follow a component or bundle for as many operations as they have been trained or until the adjacent operator is ready to assume work on the bundle. A Kanban uses a designated work space between operations to balance supply with demand. The designated space will hold a limited number of completed components (two or three) in queue for the next operation. If the designated space is full, there is no need to produce more until it is needed or the space empties. This limit builds up of product ahead of the next operation. When the space is full the operator can assist with other operations that may be slow. The bump-back or TSS (Toyota Sewing System) approach was developed by the Toyota Sewn Product Management System and is probably the most widely used type of team-based manufacturing. It is a stand-up module with flexible work zones and cross-trained operators. Operators may be cross-trained on up to four different successive operations. This enables operators to shift from operation to operation until the next operator is ready to begin work on the garment. The operator needing work steps to the beginning of the zone and takes over the processing at whatever point it is in the production process. The operator who has been relieved of the garment will then move back to the beginning of the work zone and take over work on another garment. This approach enables continuous work on a garment and allows each operator to perform several different operations. This arrangement frequently uses a 4-to-l ratio of machines to operators. Advantages: High flexibility Fast throughput times Low wastages Reduced absenteeism Reduced Repetitive Motion Ailments Increased employee ownership of the production process Empowered employees Improved Quality Disadvantages: A high capital investment in equipment. High investment in initial training. High cost incurred in continued training

Garment production systems: An overview

Most of the production systems employed in clothing factories are derived from the following manual or mechanical systems. Each production system has its own specific operational characteristics. This article discusses the features, merits and demerits of different garment production systems. Individual system/Make through/Whole garment system This is essentially the traditional method of production whereby one operator assembles the entire garment. In men's bespoke wear, it is not uncommon for a tailor to perform nearly every operation required to make the garment, including machining, hand work and pressing. With this production system the operator would be given a bundle of cut work and would proceed to sew it according to his or her own method of work. Of necessity, the labour required by this system must be highly skilled and versatile, a combination which is becoming exceedingly rare and increasingly expensive. This type of system is effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced in extremely small quantities. A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique, which produces its own merchandise. Whole Garment Production System There are two types of Whole Garment Production Systems: (1) complete whole garment and (2) departmental whole garment. In the whole garment system one individual makes the entire garment from cutting the cloth to sewing and pressing the garment. The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes the final operation. This type of system is used in a few places, which are engaged in custom-wholesale. They are normally high priced and exclusively made for a particular customer. They are limited in number and distribution; normally about 10-20 garments are made. The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom wholesale manufacturers as well as high price or better dress manufacturers. In the departmental whole garment system one individual does all the work with the equipment allocated to a department. For example, one person does all the cutting work in cutting department, second person does all the sewing work in sewing department, and the third person does the pressing and packing work. The workers in this system may use more than one equipment to complete their respective job. Advantages 1. This system is more effective when a very large variety of garments have to be produced in extremely small quantities. 2. In Individual piece rate system the operators will do with full involvement: To finish more pieces, to earn more money. 3. Operator will be specialised in his own working area. 4. As the pay depends upon the complication of the operation, the operator will try to finish the complicated operation also without any difficulties. 5. The Work in Progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one cut garment to one operator and so the amount as inventory is reduced. Disadvantages 1. Highly skilled labourers are used, so the cost of labour is high. 2. The operator is more concerned on the number of pieces finished rather than the quality of work. 3. Productivity is less due to lack of specialisation. 4. For long run/bulk quantity of same style is not effective in this system. Section or Process System - Group System  This is a development of the making through system, with the difference that the operators specialise in one major component and sew it from beginning to end. For example, an operator specialising in fronts would assemble the front, set the pockets, etc and perform all the operations required to finish that particular component. The sewing room would have a number of sections, each containing versatile operators capable of performing all the operations required for a specific component. The sections are built according to the average garment produced, and include: º Pre-assembling (the preparation of small parts) º Front making º Back making º Main assembly (closing, setting collars and sleeves, etc) º Lining making º Setting linings º Finishing operations (buttonholes, blind-stitching, etc) All in all, this is a very efficient system for producing a variety of styles in reasonable quantities. Figure 1 shows a typical layout and workflow for this type of system. Advantages  1. As the labour of all levels, ie, semi skilled, skilled, trainee can be used in this system, the labour cost is less compared with individual system. 2. Productivity is higher compared to individual system, because of the use of special machine and all types of labour. 3. This system is very efficient for producing a variety of styles in reasonable quantities. 4. Automation and specialisation can be done. 5. Absenteeism and machine breakdown problems will not cause serious problems. Disadvantages 1. All the levels of operators are involved in the work, so the quality of garment should be strictly maintained. 2. Even though productivity is high still the highly skilled operators are required to perform simple operation within the section. 3. Group of people involved in each section and so we require more WIP, which increases the inventory cost. 4. As this is not a bundling system, there are more chances to mix up of lost, shade variation, sizes, so quality and production will be affected. Progressive Bundle System - Batch System This system is exactly what its name implies, a system whereby the garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive sub-assembly and main assembly operations in bundle form. The principles of this system are: º The various sections are positioned according to main operation sequence, with each section having a layout according to the sequence of operations required to produce a particular component. For example, the sleeve section could contain the following sequence of operations: 1. Run stitch collar 2. Collar turn/iron 3. Collar top stitch, etc The amount of machinery for each operation would be determined by the output required. º A work store is positioned at the start and end of every section of these buffers is used to store work received from a preceding operation, and to hold work completed by that section. º Due to these work stores or buffers, each section is not directly dependent on the preceding section, but can absorb slight variations in output via the stocks held within the section. The progressive bundle system, while being somewhat cumbersome in operation and requiring large quantities of work in progress, is probably one of the most stable systems as regards output. Unless there is serious absenteeism or prolonged special machine breakdowns, most of the usual hold-ups can be absorbed because of the amounts of work in progress. Balancing and the changeover to new styles are also somewhat simplified, due to the amount of work held in reverse. When properly managed, the progressive bundle system is versatile and efficient. Advantages 1. Labours of all levels, ie, unskilled, skilled, semi skilled labours are involved in this system where the operations are broken into small simple operation. Hence the cost of labour is very cheap. 2. Here the quantity of each component is checked during the individual operation itself, so the quality is good. 3. The components are moved in bundles from one operation to next operation, so there is less chance for confusion like, lot mix-up, shade variation, size variation, etc. 4. Specialisation and rhythm of operation increase productivity. 5. As the WIP is high in this system, this is stable system. Because of the buffer, the breakdown, absenteeism, balancing of line, change of style can be easily managed. 6. An effective production control system and quality control system can be implemented. a. Time study, method study techniques. b. Operator training programme. c. Use of material handling equipment, such as centre table, chute, conveyor, trolley, bins, etc. 7. Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving the problems becomes easy. Disadvantages 1. Balancing the line is difficult and this problem is solved by an efficient supervisor. 2. Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed. 3. Proper planning requires for each batch and for each style, which takes a lot of time. 4. Improper planning causes labour turnover, poor quality, less production, etc. 5. Increase in WIP in each section increases the inventory cost. 6. Planned and proper layout should be made to make the system effective, ie, smooth flow of material. 7. Variety of styles & less quantity are not effective in this system. 8. Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every batch to balance the line effectively. Straight-line or 'Synchro' System As its name suggests, this system is based on a synchronised flow of work through each stage of producing a garment. Time-synchronisation is the most important factor of this system because the flow of work cannot be synchronised if there are considerable variations in the standard times allowed for all the operations performed on the line. For example, if one operation has a value of 1.5 minutes SAM, then all the other operations in the line must have the same, or a very close, value. The manipulation required to balance the standard time for each operator can sometimes lead to illogical combinations of whole or part operations which are not always conducive to the overall efficiency of individual operators. Layout for full sleeve shirt - Batch System  PBS - Synchro Straight Line System  The synchro system by its very nature is rigid and particularly vulnerable to absenteeism and machine breakdowns. At all times reserve operators and machines must be available to fill the gaps. In addition, this system requires a sufficient volume of the same type of garment to keep the line in continuous operation. Unit Production System (UPS) As a mechanical system this has been in use for many years, but a major advance was made in 1983 when computers were first used to plan, control and direct the flow of work through the system. The essential features of this type of system are: 1. The unit of production is a single garment and not bundles. 2. The garment components are automatically transported from workstation to work station according to a pre-determined sequence. 3. The work stations are so constructed that the components are presented as close as possible to the operator's left hand in order to reduce the amount of movement required to grasp and position and component to be sewn. The operational principles are as follows: All the components for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a workstation specially designed for this purpose. The carrier itself is divided into sections, with each section having a quick-release clamp, which prevents the components from falling out during movement through the system. When a batch of garments has been loaded into carriers they are fed past a mechanical or electronic device, which records the number of the carrier and addresses it to its first destination. Some of the more intelligent systems address the carriers with all the destinations they will have to pass through to completion. The loaded carriers are then fed onto the main powered line, which continually circulates between the rows of machines. This main, or head, line is connected to each workstation by junctions, which open automatically if the work on a carrier is addressed to that particular station. The carrier is directed to the left side of the operator and waits its turn along with the other carriers in the station. When the operator has completed work on one carrier, a push button at the side of the sewing machine is pressed and this actuates a mechanism, which transports the carrier back to the main line. As one carrier leaves the station, another is automatically fed in to take its place. When the carrier leaves the station it is recorded on the data collection system, and then addressed to its next destination. Unit Production System requires substantial investments, which are not always justified by conventional payback calculations. Apart from the measurable tangible benefits, UPS also have many intangible benefits such as a more orderly and controlled flow of work, and the ability via the control computer of simulating the production situation some time in advance. These intangibles are difficult to measure, but in themselves make a very positive contribution to the overall viability of the unit. All things considered, unit production systems have major advantages over all the other manual and the mechanical systems used for the mass production of clothing. Most importantly, they provide a clothing factory with the capability to respond quickly to any changes, which might occur. In the fast moving fashion business, this is essential. Advantages 1. Bundle handling completely eliminated. 2. The time involved in the pick-up and disposal is reduced to minimum. 3. Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register the work. 4. The computerised systems automatically balance the work between stations. 5. Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system. Disadvantages 1. Unit production system requires high investments. 2. The payback period of the investment takes long time. 3. Proper planning is required to be effective. Quick Response Sewing System This system was first developed in Japan to enable quick responses to be made to market changes, especially when orders for individual styles were in small lots. Each workstation is equipped with two or four machines and the operator will take the garment through the required operations, including pressing, before it is transported to the next workstation. Quick response system layout Some of the basic machinery is duplicated in different stations and if there is a bottleneck in one section the overload is automatically transported to other stations where operator capacity is available. All the parts of one garment are loaded into a hanging clamp attached to the trolley and in theory, there should only be one garment at each workstation. Work is transported by a computer controlled, overhead trolley system and each station has an individual controller, which provides the operator with information on the style being worked on. This information comes from an information card, which accompanies each trolley. A less sophisticated version of QRS uses a wheeled trolley, which contains the components for one garment and is pushed along the floor from operator to operator. Another feature of QRS is that all the operators work in a standing position so that they can move quickly from one machine to another within their own workstation. Machine heights are adjusted accordingly and touch-pads and knee-pads controls are used instead of conventional foot pedals. Features º Supervision: Freed to work with the operators. º Labour: Of necessity the operators must be highly skilled in the operation of all the different machines in one workstation. º Quality: In-process inspection stations are built into the line and the inspector is able to return faulty work via the system to the operator concerned. º Productivity: This is very high because the operator handles the garment once only for a number of operations, instead of once for each operation. º Throughput time: As there are so few garments on the line throughput time is extremely short, which is the objective of this system. º Layout: A typical unit would have eight work stations arranges around the transport system. There is no doubt that this type of system is one of the best answers to the garment production revolution, which is becoming more apparent every day. Fashion changes are becoming more frequent and as a consequence order lots are proportionately smaller. A production system, which enables changeovers to be made in the minimum of time is ideally suited to this new and dynamic situation. Evaluation of Production Systems Any production system has four primary factors, which make up the system. Processing Time + Transportation Time + Temporary Storage Time + Inspection Time = Total Production Time. Processing time is sum total of working time of all operations involved in manufacture of a garment. Transportation time involves the time taken to transport semi-finished or finished garments from one department to another or from one operation/machine to another. Temporary storage time is time during which the garment/bundle is idle as it waits for next operation or for completion of certain parts. Inspection time is time taken for inspecting semi-finished garments for any defects during manufacturing or inspecting fully finished garments before packing. The main aim of any production system is to achieve minimum possible total production time. This automatically reduces in-process inventory and its cost. The sub-assembly system reduces temporary storage time to zero by combining temporary storage time with transportation time. Conclusion The choice of best apparel production system will depend on the product and policies of the company and on the capacities of manpower. Where style changes are frequent and lot sizes small, it may be advantageous to use skilled labour who can make whole garment and use one of the whole garment system. As the lot size increases it is advisable to use section production system. The sub-assembly system is superior to the progressive bundle system as it takes less time. That is the processing time for a garment in both system is same but sub-assembly system has less waiting or temporary storage time. However the space requirement, machinery requirement and labour costs are high for sub-assembly system. In most cases the choice of a production system depends on the cost of the inventory-in process. Inventory-in process is the total number of garments in the production line. This consists of all garments being processed at sewing machines, under inspection and in temporary storage between operations. When material, labour, space and interest costs are high, synchronised sub-assembly system which yields the least possible in-process inventory is more suitable. One of the aims of any production system is to make total production time as minimum as possible. This automatically reduces inventory cost to a minimum. Sub-assembly system provides many opportunities to economise on temporary storage and transportation space and time. No definite answer can be given as to which is the best, as it depends on garment style, specifications, machinery and manpower and manufacturing policies.

Comparison between Progressive Bundle System and Unit Production System (UPS)

In industrial garment manufacturing plants various types of sewing systems are installed. A plant owner chooses these systems depending on the production volume, product categories, and cost effectiveness of high tech machines. Among those “Progressive Bundle System” (PBS) is mostly installed sewing system till date. In this production system bundles of cut pieces (bundle of 5, 10, 20 or 30 pieces) are moved manually to feed the line. Then inside the line an operator himself drag the bundle from side table and transfer the bundle to the next operator after completion of the work. 

With the advancement of the technology mechanical material transportation systems are brought in the sewing plant. An overhead material transport system, known as UPS (Unit Production System) transports cut pieces hanged in hangers (one hanger for one piece) by automated mechanical transport system. It reduces manual transportation and it has many other benefits against the progressive bundle system. This article is not to recommend one to replace this well placed progressive bundle system. When to install a new technology is depend on various factors. 

A comparison between these two production systems has been drawn in the following table on the basis of production KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to show how an UPS system (overhead hanging and sensor controlled system) is most effective over PBS.

Parameters	Progressive Bundle System (PBS)	Unit Production System (UPS)
Transportation	-Manual transportation, many times helper are hired for this bundle transportation job. -Operators stop their work to fetch bundles. -Less effective in terms of production management. Resulted long response time.	-In this system an automated mechanical system carries pieces to each work stations. -Easier pick up and dispose at each work station. Resulted quick response time
Through put time	-Compare to UPS, through put time longer in PBS. How much long will depend on the bundle size and no. of bundles kept in between two operators.	-Through put time in UPS is less compare to PBS. But it is not the minimum time as in this system there is WIP in between two operators.
Direct Labour content	- Direct labour content is high because usually operator does tying and untying of bundles, positioning components, pulling the bundle ticket and handling of work pieces.	-Direct labour content is less than PBS because an operator only sews the garment part rather than other tasks. In this system garment parts are held by the over head hanger, so less handling of garment components.
WIP level	-In PBS generally operators are asked to sew as much pieces as they can without considering back and front operators. This resulted piling up of work in the operations with higher work content.	-Less WIP in between operators. As workstation has limit of holding no. of hangers. Also after completion of operation hangers are transported to the next operation automatically.
Cutting work requirement	-As a result of High Work In Process (WIP) is required by sewing section, cutting sections are required to perform 60-70% more than actual production can handle.	-Lower WIP results in less cutting works. A balanced flow of material established in between cutting and sewing line.
Inventory Level	-Due high WIP and higher cutting, fabrics and trims need to stock in advance	-Less inventory for fabric and trims.
Excess labour requirement	- Usually in PBS needs more overtime works, repair work due to some unfinished operations.	-Plant with UPS system needs less overtime as planning is easy in this manufacturing system.

How Atomic Force Microscopy is works? Watch this video......!!!

Classification of man-made fibers and their codes

10 things you need to know about water impacts of the Textile and Fashion industry

It might feel like we could never run out of water, but water suitable for human consumption makes up just 3% of the world’s water. Photograph: Marco Mattana/EPA

1. Water is central to sustainable development

Global leaders, businesses, and organisations are currently working on the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) which will be agreed upon in collaboration with the UN next year. Rami Abdelrahman, programme coordinator for the Sweden Textile Water Initiative believes that a dedicated SDG on water is crucial for guiding water resource users towards sustainable management.

2. “Peak water” is being taken increasingly seriously

For the fashion industry, access to water is essential for cotton cultivation, textile dyeing and finishing. With water use predicted to increase by 50% between 2007 and 2025 in developing countries and 18% in developed ones, there is a growing awareness of the potential challenges that come from increasing competition for this finite resource.

These concerns are translating into collaboration. In Bangladesh, thePartnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) brings together buyers, factories and technical specialists to improve its textile wet processing sector. TheBetter Mill Initiative in China is focused on solutions for the conservation of water and energy, pollution, and improved chemical management. It began as a collaboration between Solidaridad and H&M and has since involved brands including C&A, Primark and New Look.

In Sweden too, a sector wide collaboration is underway between the Stockholm International Water Institute (SIWI) and around 30 Swedish brands to assess water risk in supply chains and develop industry guidelines for the sustainable use of water resources in processes.

However, it’s not all good news as Cate Lamb, head of CDP’s water programme points to CDP research indicating that water-related issues are still low on the agenda of business leaders across all sectors.

3. There’s a strong business case for the fashion industry to manage its water footprint

CDP’s Global Water Report 2013 found that almost 60% of 500 global companies have already experienced the detrimental impacts of water. In 2011 for example, floods in Thaliand forced Intel to cut its revenue forecast by $1bn and Gap was forced to cut its profit forecast by 22% after drought cut into the cotton crop in Texas.

There is a clear business case in water as a cost-carrier of energy, waste and chemicals. As Solidaridad’s senior programme manager, Marieke Weerdesteijn points: “if excessive water is used in textile dyeing, it needs to be heated, more process chemicals are needed and [then] after the process treated in the effluent treatment plant. When you add these costs, water saving measures do show a good return on investment.”

Often though as Laila Petrie of WWF says, the real business case for responsible water stewardship isn’t about profit and loss, but about brand reputation and securing a social licence to operate.

4. Water issues can be a non-competitive space

When it comes to water, fashion brands face the same risks across their supply chains. As Stuart Harker, managing director of the Business Environmental Performance Initiative (BEPI) notes, an inclusive and pragmatic approach is paramount to achieving the fashion industry’s water ambitions.

The geographical dispersion of production sites is low and therefore different players can benefit from collaborating on select engagements in priority river basins.

5. There is a broad consensus that production should stay put, rather than move to G20 countries

Some argue that the large-scale production of textiles should move to countries where there is more water, more forms of clean energy and an infrastructure capable of water recycling.

Felix Ockborn, responsible for H&M’s corporate water strategy argues that the issue should be looked at more holistically. The textile industry has been key to economic development in many countries and is tied to issues such as job creation and economic empowerment. Although some smaller brands are moving production back to G20 countries, CDP’s Lamb believes big brands will lose out on an opportunity to create meaningful action if they walk away.

6. There are alternatives to water thirsty cotton

According to WWF, it can take up to 2,700 litres to produce the cottonneeded to make a single t-shirt. The Better Cotton Initiative is trying to minimise this environmental impact by educating farmers on reducing water and pesticide use.

Novozymes meanwhile, has been working on creating water savings in textile processing and its global marketing director Peter Faaborg, says that enzymatic textile processing can save up to 25% of the water traditionally used in cotton textile manufacturing.

Still, cotton is ranked in class E (least sustainable) in the Made-BY environmental benchmark for fibres. Made-BY senior consultant, Ariel Kraten, contends that cotton could be replaced by CRAiLAR, a class B fibre which, like linen, comes from the fast-growing flax plant. CRAiLAR is turned into a fibre more like cotton when spun using a particular enzyme process.

7. Recyling water is technically possible but still faces problems scaling up

The chemicals left in water limit the ability to recycle it, but Levi’s recently worked with one of its Chinese suppliers to make 100,000 pairs of jeans using 100% recycled water, so it can be done.

However, water regulation (or lack of it) is a huge determining factor in the speed at which water recycling will gain ground. Weerdesteijn says it is likely to be adopted far faster in China than in Bangladesh, because cleaner production is part of government policy in China, along with a gradual increase in water recycling in specific sectors.

8. Managing the water impacts of dyeing starts with good housekeeping

Through easy, low-cost measures like installing nozzles on hoses, quite a lot of water and energy can be saved. When existing processes are optimised for sustainability, the next step is identifying process modifications such as the use of enzymes or high fixation and low salt dyestuffs.

9. Fashion brands can influence sustainable water use beyond factory walls

By educating and training factory management and workers on sustainable water and energy, typically low-tech solutions such as identifying leaks, fixing broken pipes and reusing heated water can be applied at home and in communities.

10. You have power as a consumer

Beyond fields, factory floors and high street shelves, one of the biggest water impacts of fashion happens at home. Initiatives such as Clever Careand the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higgs Index have the potential to increase consumer awareness around sustainable fashion but there are immediate practical steps you can take to minimise your water footprint. You can air instead of wash, choose good detergents and efficient wash programs, and hand unwanted garments into recycling programmes.

WWF’s Petrie presents three important questions to ask of your favourite brands: Are they setting targets on managing their supply chain water impacts? Are the moving towards more sustainable raw materials? Are they working with others to address water problems in important river basins?

14 Strange and Amazing Textile Innovations

facebook Relying on polluting textile materials like cotton and polyester may become a thing of the past as a new range of eco-fabrics emerge, often made from materials that would otherwise go to waste. Some of these environmentally friendly fabrics are already in use, like those made of coconut husks, recycled plastic bottles, wood pulp and corn, while others are strange and futuristic, sourced from hagfish slime, fermented wine, spoiled milk and genetically engineered bacteria. Fabric from Fermented Wine (images via: ecouterre) A group of scientists at the University of Western Australia has produced fabric by letting microbes go to work on wine. The scientists culture baceria called Acetobacter in vats of cheap red wine, and the bacteria ferments the alcohol into fibers that float just above the surface. These fibers can be extracted and fashioned into clothing. The only catch? Acetobacter produce vinegar as its end product, so the garments have a definite odor. Naoron, Durable Fabric Made of Wood Pulp (images via: ecouterre) This leather alternative is not only animal-friendly, it also eschews the chemicals required to create conventional faux leather. Naoran is a water-resistant textile derived from wood pulp and recycled polyester. It’s soft, flexible, and tear- and water-resistant. Hagfish Slime Thread (images via: eco textile news) The slimy substance in the photo above is defensive goo attached to a hagfish, an eel-shaped bottom-dwelling animal of the deep seas that is the only known creature to have a skull, but no vertebral column. Scientists have discovered that proteins within this slime have mechanical properties rivaling those of spider silk, and can be woven into high-performance bio-materials. Electroluminescent Garments (images via: the creators project) For this unusual fabric in a collection by fashion designer Vega Wang, silk was printed with images of constellations and other space-related themes, and then the fabric was lined with electroluminescent paper. Programmed controllers enable the paper to shine through the silk for a dreamy, ethereal effect. Spider Silk Made from Metabolically Engineered Bacteria (image via: carmenn) Known for its tremendous strength – three times stronger than both steel and Kevlar, yet thinner than a human hair – spider silk is a highly valuable material for textiles. But farming and harvesting spider silk is a definite challenge. Instead, geneticists have found a way tochemically synthesize the silk gene and insert it into E. coli bacteria. Ingeo, Fabric Made from Corn (images via: nature works) Synthetic fibers are most often petroleum-based, but recycled fibers and those sourced from natural substances are on the rise. Ingeo, a fabric by Natureworks derived from fermented corn starches, can be spun into fibers for apparel and home textiles, and also used for bio-plastics. Silk-Like Fiber Derived from Spoiled Milk (images via: milkotex) Few of us would willingly walk around wearing spoiled milk, but it might just become all the rage in the near future. A company called Qmilch makes fabric from protein found in soured ‘secondary milk’ that’s no longer suitable for human consumption, and would normally be thrown away. This zero-waste fabric requires no harmful chemicals to make, and uses less water in the production process than other milk-based fabrics. Newlife Polyester Yarn Made of Recycled Plastic Bottles (images via: new life by miroglio) Newlife is a polyester yarn made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic bottles, which is processed by mechanical rather than chemical means. Made in Italy, the fabric is used in fashion, sportswear, underwear, medical garments and other clothes and furnishings. Georgio Armani used it to create a fashionable, eco-friendly gown for LIvia Firth at the 2012 Golden Globe Awards. Used Coffee Pods (images via: ecouterre) Inspired by the resourcefulness of locals in Kerala, India, who repurpose waste in surprising ways, designer Rachel Rodwell discovered a material that wasn’t living up to its potential: used coffee pods. Rodwell gathers pods from friends and family and smashes them with a meat tenderizer, reconfiguring them into geometric-inspired designs in colors that reflect India’s cultural aesthetics. Recycled Newspaper Yarn (images via: ecouterre) Artist Ivano Vitali tears recycled newsprint into strips and twists it into balls of yarn without the use of glue, dyes or silicone, crocheting them into textile art with custom-made wooden knitting needles and hooks as long as 8 feet. Recently, Vitali has expanded into wearable art, achieving certain colors for dresses, jackets and even bikinis by painstakingly sorting his printed materials by color. Self-Repairing Textile (images via: ecouterre) Once a protective garment like a raincoat or lab wear is ripped or torn, it’s useless. But the total loss of these garments may become a thing of the past with the creation of ‘intelligent’ fabric that can heal itself. Researchers at SINTEF added microcapsules containing a glue-like substance to the plastic polyurethane that is applied to modern rainwear, so that if the garment snags, the capsules release a sealant that fills in the gaps and hardens with contact to air and water. Cocona, Made of Coconut Husks (images via: nau) It was only a matter of time before tough, fibrous coconut husks were made into durable fabric. Cocona is one trademarked example, made of coconut-husk waste disposed of by the food service industry. The fabric is lightweight and breathable, making it ideal for sportswear. It’s used in Nau’s insular jacket. Lab-Grown Biological Textiles (images via: biological atelier) How will biotechnology change the fashion industry? Designer Amy Congdon believes that in the future, we’ll be able to grow textiles like ethical fur in laboratories. Her series ‘Biological Atelier’ imagines a workshop, circa 2082, where high-fashion garments are grown from cells. Recycled Cassette Tapes (images via: ecouterre) All of the strands of cassette tape still floating around in the world could not only be reused for fabrics, but spun into ‘audio textiles’ that play back under a tape head. Artist Alyce Santoro weaves this unlikely material on antique looms in a family-run textile mill in England to produce ‘Sonic Fabric’, including purses made from sound collages based on life in New York City.