Wednesday, 31 December 2014

Quality control basic concepts



In this article I explain three fundamental concepts that every buyer should be familiar with when it comes to quality inspections:

   1. Inspection levels

   2. The AQL

   3.  When to inspect?

After 10 minutes, you will be able to (1) understand the reliability of an inspector’s findings and (2) take more informed decisions based on an inspection report.

If you have not started doing professional quality control, you will need to understand these 3 concepts to make sure the inspection plan meets your needs.

1. Inspection levels

Why use random sampling?

Shipments often represent thousands of products. Checking 100% of the quantity would be long and expensive. A solution is to select samples at random and inspect them, instead of checking the whole lot.

But how many samples to select? On the one hand, checking only a few pieces might prevent the inspector from noticing quality issues; on the other hand, the objective is to keep the inspection short by reducing the number of samples to check.

The relevant standards propose a standard severity, called “normal level”, which is designed to balance these two imperatives in the most efficient manner.

Within this normal severity, there are three general levels: I, II, and III. Level II is used for more than 90% of inspections. For example, for an order of 8,000 products, only 200 samples are checked.

Militari Standard 105 was created by the US Department of Defense to control their procurements more efficiently. In 1994 they decided to rely on non-governmental organizations to maintain this type of standard. The ANSI, ISO, and other institutes all created their own standard, but in essence they are similar. The major third-party QC firms use the same standards and the same statistical tables.

When to adopt a different level
Suppose you source a product from a factory that often ships substandard quality. You know that the risk is higher than average. How to increase the discriminating power of the inspection? You can opt for level III, and more samples will be checked.

Similarly, if a supplier has consistently delivered acceptable products in the past and keeps its organization unchanged, you can choose level I. As fewer samples have to be checked, the inspection might take less time and be cheaper.

The relevant standards give no indication about when to switch inspection levels, so most importers rely on their “gut feeling”.

The “special levels”

Inspectors frequently have to perform some special tests on the products they are checking. In some cases the tests can only be performed on very few samples, for two reasons:

  1.     They might take a long time (e.g. doing a full function test as per claims on the retail box).
  2.     They end up in product destruction. e.g.( unstitching a jacket to check the lining fabric).

For these situations only, the inspector can choose a “special level”.
So we have three “general” inspection levels, and four “special levels”. For a given order quantity, each level gives a different number of samples to check. Let’s see how it plays in two examples.

Example 1: you order 40,000 products


The number of samples to draw varies from 8 to 800. Depending on the level you choose, the inspection might take only one inspector for one day, or up to 4 or 5 days of work.

Example 2: you order 3,000 products



 Note: do not mix up “inspection levels” (I, II, III, S-1, S-2, S-3, S-4) and “inspection severity” (reduced, normal, tightened). They are different concepts. The above examples are based on a “normal” severity.

2. The AQL (Acceptance Quality Limit)

In part 1, we explained the different inspection levels that can be used. Another basic concept rings familiar to many importers, but is often not clearly understood: the AQL (Acceptance Quality Limit).

There is no such thing as zero defect
First, as a buyer, you have to know what proportion of defects is tolerated on your market. If you are in the aviation business, any defective part might cause a disaster, so your tolerance will be very, very low. But you will have to accept a higher percentage of defects if you source consumer products that are assembled by hand in China or in India.

An objective limit is necessary
So, how many defects are too many? It is up to you, as a buyer, to make this decision. There are two reasons why you should not leave this to the inspector’s judgment:

  1. When it comes to giving instructions to an inspector, you should never leave gray areas—as they might open the door to corruption.
  2. Your supplier should have clear criteria for acceptability, or they will see rejections as unfair.

The AQL is the proportion of defects allowed by the buyer. It should be communicated to the supplier in advance.

The three categories of defects

Some defects are much worse than others. Three categories are typically distinguished:

  •     Critical defects might harm a user or cause a whole shipment to be blocked by the customs.
  •     Major defects are not accepted by most consumers, who decide not to buy the product.
  •     Minor defects also represent a departure from specifications, but some consumers would still buy the product.

For most consumer products, critical defects are not allowed, and the AQL for major defects and minor defects are 2.5% and 4.0% respectively.

Some important remarks:

  •     A professional inspector will notice defects and evaluate their category by himself. But it is better if the buyer himself describes the most frequent defects and assigns categories to each one.
  •     Defects can be on the product itself, on the labeling or on the packaging.
  •     If one sample presents several defects, only the most severe one is counted.

How to read the AQL tables

The master tables included in the relevant standards are commonly called AQL tables. Let’s take an example.

You buy 8,000 widgets from a factory, and you choose inspection level II. In the table below (which is only valid for single sampling plans), you see that the corresponding letter is L.

AQL table 1 (sample code letters):


Now let’s turn to the next table (which is only appropriate for normal-severity inspections). The letter L gives you the number of samples to draw at random: 200 pcs.

And what about the AQL? Let’s say you follow the usual practice of tolerating 0% of critical defects, 2.5% of major defects, and 4.0% of minor defects. The maximum acceptable number of defects is 10 major and 14 minor. In other words, the inspection is failed if you find at least 1 critical defect and/or at least 11 major defects and/or at least 15 minor defects.

AQL table 2:

Notes:

  •     These 2 tables are only useful for inspections under normal severity. See all the tables for single sampling on AQL tables.
  •     More information about the AQL here.

Additional notes, for accuracy

  •    The number of defects is not the only cause for acceptance of refusal. The products can be refused because they are not conform to the buyer’s specifications, even though their workmanship is very good.
  •     If you have two different products (made with different processes or in different factories), you should do two separate inspections. If you inspect them together, one product might be accepted even though it presents too many defects. Why? Because the better workmanship of the other product might “compensate” for its poor quality.

3. When to inspect?

The first two parts focused on the different inspection levels and on the AQL tables. So you know how to set the number of samples to check and how many defects have to be accepted. With these settings and your detailed product specifications, a QC inspector can check your products and reach a conclusion (passed or failed).

But importers face one more question: when should the products be inspected? This is an extremely important issue for buyers willing to secure their supply chain. Spending a few hundreds of dollars to check and fix issues early can be an excellent investment; if might save you weeks of delay, shipments by air, and/or lower quality products that you have to accept and deliver to your own customers.

Four types of inspections

Let’s picture the simplified model where one factory turns raw materials into finished products. (If you also have to manage the quality of sub-suppliers’ products, the same model can be applied to them)


Pre-production inspection

This type of inspection is necessary if you want to check the raw materials or components that will be used in production. Buying cheaper materials can increase a factory’s margin considerably, so you should keep an eye on this risk. It can also be used to monitor the processes followed by the operators.

During production inspection
This inspection allows you to get a good idea of average product quality, and to ask for corrections if problems are found. It can take place as soon as the first finished products get off the line, but these samples might not be representative of the whole order. So usually an inspection during production is done after 10-30% of the products are finished.

Final (pre-shipment) inspection

Inspecting the goods after they are made and packed is the standard QC solution of most importers. The inspector can really check every detail, including counting the total quantity and confirming the packaging. Final inspections are usually performed in a hurry, just before shipment. To avoid creating delays, inspectors can usually start after all products are finished and 80%+ of the shipment quantity is packed.

Loading supervision

In some cases, a buyer wants to make sure the factory ships the right products, in the right quantity, and with the right loading plan.

Further reading about the different types of inspections: quality inspection services.

4. Putting it all together

Example 1: 5,000 widgets from a new supplier

You have no information about the factory, so you should adopt level II.

The order quantity is comprised between 3,201 and 10,000pcs. In the first AQL table (higher in this document), you see the code letter is L.

And in the second AQL table you see that 200 samples have to be checked by the inspector.

If you opt for the standard AQL limits (0 C. / 2.5% M. / 4.0% m.), the inspection is failed if at least one of these conditions comes true:

  •     One or more critical defects are found
  •     Eleven or more major defects are found
  •     Fifteen or more minor defects are found

And let’s say you want the inspector to check all the product functions on a few samples. This test takes some time. You can choose special level S-2. You see this test will be done on 8 samples.

Let’s say the 200 samples can be checked by one person in one day, so a third-party QC firm would quote you one man-day.

When to inspect? If this is a standard product and you have flexibility with timing, a final (pre-shipment) inspection should be enough.

Example 2: 30,000 watches from unknown factory(ies)

You suspect that your supplier gave orders to several workshops to produce your goods, but he won’t tell you. And these items are rather valuable. A level-III inspection is probably the most appropriate.

If we read the AQL tables as we did above, we have to inspect 500 samples, and the maximum number of defects is: 0 critical, 21 major, 21 minor.

If a visual check on all samples and a function/accuracy check on a few pieces is enough, it probably takes two or three man-days.

When to inspect? If the supplier refuses to disclose the factory information, you have to go for a final (pre-shipment) inspection.

Example 3: four different styles of garments from a good factory
You know that this factory’s workmanship is quite good. But you want an inspector to check all the conformity elements, and in particular the measurements. Level I should be enough.

You sell these products in boutiques at a high price, so you can only accept 1.5% major defects (M) and 4.0% minor defects (m). Note: for garments, there are generally no critical defects.

The fitting is quite important, especially for the brassiere and the brief, so 3 to 5 samples should be measured in each size.

There are 4 different types of products, so there has to be 4 inspections:


The total number of samples to check visually is 317 pieces. And 63 of these samples also have to be measured. So it will probably take 2 inspectors (maybe 3, depending on the products complexity) for one day.

When to inspect? The best is clearly during production, after enough finished products have come off the lines. As the 4 products might not all be processed at exactly the same time, it might be preferable to send an inspector at different times. And if an inspection is failed, a re-inspection can probably be performed at the supplier’s charge. - See more at: http://textile-b24.blogspot.cz/2014/12/quality-control-basic-concepts.html#sthash.UhY4V5wq.dpuf

Fashion Merchandising: Importance of Sampling



Introduction:
Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as "The concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development." Though sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to know whether the factory is capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the ability of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer accesses the capability of exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are of good quality naturally the buyers will be willing to place the order to factory.

Sampling also work as a bridge between the productions and marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as well as production department. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and should be manufactured with optimum quality.

Different types of samples:
Sampling process varies from buyer to buyer, and type of style as well, but in industry there is particular order of sampling is followed, the stages and purpose of sample may be same but terminology used may be different and it totally depend upon buyer. The typical samples namely described as:
1. Design development
2. Proto sample
3. Fit sample
4. Ad or photo shoot sample
5. Sales man sample
6. Pre- production sample
7. GPT sample
8. Size set  sample
9. TOP sample
10. Wash sample
11. Shipment sample

These samples are sent to the buyer one after another for approval from the buyer and to proceed further. Apart from these usual steps, sometimes the buyer suggests some changes in the prepared sample, and then incorporating those suggestions makes a counter sample andin it is sent to the buyer for approval. The sampling department helps the merchandising department for finding out fabric consumption per unit garment and thereby helps in the costing of garment.

Briefs on different samples:

1. Design development:

  •     This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
  •     Design development is either done by buyer or factory
  •     The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.

2. Proto sample:

  •     Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based on proto sample only.
  •     Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
  •     The factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get confirmation from buyer.
  •     Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not available.
  •     Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
  •     As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to develop the proto sample buyer need to provide necessary information along with the proto request. These are: Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), Bill of Material, Development sample (optional), Paper patterns (optional), Sample of novelty trims, Sample of fabric yardage (it may be send by buyer or asked to develop), Details of Print or Embroidery, if any.
  •     Generally proto request is responded within the 7-10 days by merchandiser.
  •     Factory need to submit at least 4 proto samples (quantity may change buyer to buyer)
  •     If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit the 2nd proto sample to get approval.
  •     Once proto get approved buyer asks to start working on fit sample.

3. Fit sample
  •     Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details.

  • At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands thoroughly the construction and quality details and standards The sample sent mostly in medium and large sizes mentioned by the buyer.

  •     The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.

4. Ad or photo shoot sample:

  •     In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for AD sample for photo shoot.
  •     Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
  •     This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by buyer.

5. Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample:

  •     The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
  •     In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
  •     This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
  •     The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence merchandiser should aware and make sure that product development team is well aware about the sample quality parameters.
  •     The cost of sample production is given by buyer or sometimes buyer may give 150% of FOB.

6. Size set sample:

  •     The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample in all sizes.
  •     The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.
  •     The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production floor, as required by the buyer.
  •     Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set sample get approved.
  •     Normally, 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
  •     If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes, called jump size set sample.

7. GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):
  •     The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment.
  •     The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
  •     Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.
  •     Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as buyer.
  •     If same style is having 3-4 different colours then only one color sample is tested completely and other colours samples are tested only with colour way test i.e. only colour fastness tests are conducted.

8. Pre- production sample: (PP sample)
  •     PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
  •     It has to be made in original fabric and trims
  •     Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actuals.
  •     PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identical to PP sample.
  •     The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of preproduction sample.
  •     PP sample sends in only one size 1-2 samples or specified by buyer.

9. Wash sample:

  •     Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either at size set stage or PP stage washing sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.
  •     If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sample to get approval.
  •       After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.

10. TOP sample (Top of Production):

  •     The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line with suggestion of QA department.
  •     In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
  •     Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
  •     TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging.

11. Shipment sample:

  •     Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.
  •     The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.

People involved in sampling:
Several people and departments are invloved in sampling process.They are: merchandising department, sampling/ product development team, trim and fabric store, pattern making department, quality assurance team, dispatch department and etc.

Assessment of sample:
Buyer assesses the sample and gives the feed back within 5 - 7 days to factory with respect to sample. Feedback from the buyer is 3 types i.e. accepted, rejected, and accepted with comments.
The rejection of sample may be due to following reasons: There could be one or more reasons for the sample rejection from buyer, these are: sample made out of tolerance, incorrect construction, fabric quality may not up to mark, incorrect packaging, incorrect size submission, frequent change in style and more.

What buyer looks into sample?

following table presents necessary requirements from buyer:


Conclusion:
Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. The future of any style purely depends on buyer and factory which are adding value to the samples. So it is very important to understand the sample development process to control quality and costs in the initial stage or in the sampling development. Merchandiser plays the central role in sampling process as, the only person between the buyer and factory who understands the buyer specification, technical details and time line of sampling. The process of sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific needs. It is about products the company can make or out-source profitably for which there is a market demand. Sampling is the best way to place an order. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. The use of technology, computer based designing, as well as innovation and creativitiy are important tools in driving apparel sampling.
- See more at: http://textile-b24.blogspot.cz/2014/11/fashion-merchandising-importance-of.html#sthash.7Dh0brih.dpuf

Monday, 22 December 2014

The Best Destroyed Denim For Spring

We’re loving destroyed denim this year, and it seems our options are more broad than ever. No longer are only cut-off shorts and boyfriend jeans getting the scissor and razor treatment before they land in stores, but now denim skirts, vests, and other styles are seeing some deliberate on-trend damage too. Shop some of our favorite styles of destroyed denim below.

Jak-and-Jil-Destroyed-Denim

destroyed-denim-online-1
destroyed-denim-online-2

A COMPLETE DENIM GUIDE FOR BEGINNER: WASHES, FINISHES & TERMS

There are things and terms you will without a doubt come across when entering the raw denim world. Things like sanforized, unsanforized, whiskers, Atari, yarn dye and shit there are lots of it. What’s all the fuss about? Why do denim-addicts and denim-amateurs alike pay extra special attention to it? Let’s start off the easy way.


HONEY I SHRUNK THE JEANS:
One distinction that must be made clear as well is about the sanforized denim. This will involve the jeans’ shrinkage and how far would they fade. Well, santorization is a pre-shrinking fabric. Don’t frown, the rule is simple; if it’s sanforized, there are possibility for the fabric to shrink after your wash around 1% since the fabric was through the pre-shrinking process. But if your denim says it’s un-sanforized, it will shrink between 7 and 10% after the first wash, and continue to shrink slightly up to the third wash.





“Developed in the late 1920s by the American chemist Sanford Cluett and patented by Sanforize Co. in 1928, the process was reportedly first used by Erwin Mills in 1936 to make denim for overalls marketed under JC Penney's Big Mac label. Lee jeans were made from Sanforized fabric soon afterwards, but Levi's jeans remained shrink-to-fit for another three decades until the 1960s.”

DYING: SWEAT & BLOOD PROCESS

You might have been questioned how did they do and how many types of dying are there. Started off with the Pigment dyes, for example, are dyes that do not easily bond with yarn fibres and therefore need to be held to the fabric by resins. Meaning it easier for fading and aging. Similarity to Mercerization which keeps the dye on the surface of the fabric making it a sweet candy for you fade lover.

“Denim is a yarn dyed fabric, meaning that the individual yarns are dyed before they are woven into fabric. The other method of dying, garment dying, is performed on finished garments. So if the pocket linings and labels of a piece of clothing are the same colour as the fabric, chances are it has been garment dyed.”

For the yarn dyes, there are three main processes in the industry;



1. Rope dying, believed to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn. The un-dyed yarns prepared are twisted together and dyed as a single unit. We called the single unit a rope. The rope will run through a long machine as the it’s dipped into indigo and pulled out to oxidize. The dip could happen from 5 to eight times depends on how dark you would love the yarn to be.



2. Slasher dyeing. This one combines dyeing and sizing into a single process. Warp or vertical yarns are repeatedly passed in warp beam form through several baths of indigo dye before being sized and wound for weaving. By the way, this one is said to be lower in quality than the rope dying if you ask us. The dye does not penetrate well and the color tends to be uneven. However, recent mechanical improvements have helped make it a more viable option.



3. Loop dying. This one is similar to rope dying, except that instead of six or eight baths there is only one. So if you want the deeper finished denim, just repeat the process and there you go.

More we are telling you are

- Ring dying. The one that allows only the outer ring of the fibres dyed leaving its core white.

- Hank dying, where yarns are loosely arranged in bundles, or hanks, that are then hung over a rung and immersed in a dye bath. The bundles will repeatedly run, getting the yarn dipped and then left to oxidize between each dip. The outcome is a natural tarnishing. This way the yarn remains softer feel.

You might have been wondering how could your jeans after fade expose grey or yellow cast. It would happen that way if your jeans are added sulphur dye before its indigo dye. So that was how you get the yellowish grayish vintage-look.

Yet, there is still another process. The denim producer sometime applies color after the customary indigo dye to create look variety; such as dirty denim.

BABY, IT’S PAINFUL INSIDE

We’re talking about “Laundry” yes. The laundry for denim exists to change the cast and handfeel of the denim, also to re-create the naturally occurring wear patterns that occur wherever the denim is creased or rubbed. Those natural worn look are fades occurred on several areas; thigh and crotch (called whiskers), ankles (stacks), and the back of knees (honeycombs).

Stick and stones may break bones, well, denim too. The most straightforward methods involve either stone or sand to create abrasion. Laundry techniques can be varied. Started from Sandblasting where sand is literally fired at high pressure onto the fabric. A slightly more high-tech version of this is micro-sanding, where fabric is pulled over a series of abrasive or chemically-coated rollers, which creates a soft, sueded hand to the fabric.

Other well-known washing are;

- Stone washing. There they throw a 20-yard roll of fabric and pumice stones together into a 250-pound washing machine. Let it rotate for a while. The longer the rotation, the lighter in color you got. Simple. The denim is then rinsed, softened, and tumble dried.

- Enzyme wash. Here, naturally occurring enzymes are used to eat away at the cellulose in cotton. This is how indigo get faded away.

- River washing. Say this washing combines both enzyme and stone washing together in two-stage. The outcome is a dramatic vintage-effect you wouldn’t imagine.

- Acid Wash. You are bound to hear the term somewhere if you are from Eighties’. The process is to soak the porous pumice stones in chlorine and then stone washing as normal. The outcome is a heavily super contrasted finish with unique patterns you might like or feel like crying now.

IT’S NOT A VIDEOGAME

No, not the video game we’re talking about. Here are terms you will without a doubt come across when entering the raw denim world.

1. Atari – It means fades. All the fades occurred with age on your pair are Atari. Fades are called differently depends on its area; thigh and crotch (called whiskers), ankles (stacks), and the back of knees (honeycombs).

2. Iro-ochi – This means the fading of indigo dye in denim. The term specifically relates to fading in exposed areas and not across the entire garment.

3. Tate-ochi – The term means occurrences of ‘Iro-ochi’(areas of fading, see above) forming in vertical lines in vintage denim. As the thread width is not uniform in vintage denim, the color tends to fade the most where the thread is the thickest. This creates a white, or severely faded, line of up to several centimetres along a single vertical indigo thread.